LG Dryer tE1 — What It Means & How to Fix It
Also shown as tE3 on some models.
tE1, and the related tE3, means an LG dryer has detected a problem with its thermistor — the sensor that tracks drum temperature — so a factory reset clears a one-off glitch, but a code that keeps returning points to a failing sensor for a technician.
What this code means
The thermistor tells the control how hot the air in the drum is, and tE1 or tE3 is logged when that reading looks wrong — out of range, open, or shorted. LG's first recommended step is a factory reset, which clears the fault if it was a transient hiccup. Because the sensor and its wiring sit inside the machine, a persistent tE1 is a repair rather than a DIY fix.
LG groups tE1 and tE3 together as thermistor faults handled the same way. They're separate from tE2, which is specifically a cold-weather or steam-cycle reading — if your code is tE2, use that guide instead.
Most likely causes
| Cause | How likely | DIY-fixable? |
|---|---|---|
| Temporary control glitch or one-off sensor misread | Common | Yes — reset |
| Failed or drifting thermistor (temperature sensor) | Common | No — technician job |
| Damaged or loose thermistor wiring or connector | Occasional | No — technician job |
| Control board misreading the thermistor signal | Less common | No — technician job |
What you can try yourself
- Unplug the dryer, or switch off its circuit breaker, and leave it without power for two to three minutes.
- With the power off, press and hold the Start/Pause button for about five seconds to discharge the control — LG's factory-reset step for temperature codes.
- Restore power and run a short timed cycle to see whether tE1 or tE3 clears.
- If the code returns, stop here — the thermistor and its wiring are inside the cabinet, and testing or replacing them is a technician's job, not a DIY repair.
When to call a technician
- tE1 or tE3 comes back after a full power-off reset.
- The dryer runs cold, overheats, or shuts off early alongside the code.
- You'd have to open the cabinet to reach the sensor — that's the technician's line.
Typical professional repair cost: A thermistor replacement on an LG dryer generally runs $130–$250 with labor; a control-board issue costs more.
Frequently asked questions
How do I reset an LG dryer with a tE1 code?
Cut power at the plug or breaker, hold Start/Pause for about five seconds while it's off, then restore power and run a short cycle. That's LG's factory reset for thermistor codes and it clears a one-time glitch. If tE1 comes straight back, the sensor is likely faulty and needs service.
What is the thermistor on an LG dryer?
It's a small temperature sensor that tells the control how hot the drum air is, so the dryer can hold the right heat. When its reading goes out of range you get tE1 or tE3. The part lives inside the cabinet, so replacing it is a technician job.
Is tE1 the same as tE2?
Both are thermistor codes, but LG treats them differently. tE1 and tE3 are general sensor faults fixed by a reset and, if needed, a sensor replacement. tE2 is specifically tied to cold conditions and steam cycles, where cold air backing through the vent skews the reading.
Related LG codes
- LG Dryer d80 d80 is LG's Flow Sense system telling you the exhaust duct is about 75–80% restricted: the dryer keeps running but dries slowly, so treat it as an early warning to clean the lint filter and the full vent line before the blockage gets worse.
- LG Dryer d90 d90 — and the more severe d95 — is LG's Flow Sense system reacting to a badly blocked exhaust of 90% or more by cooling the dryer down and stopping the cycle, so unlike the milder d80 you have to clear the vent before it will run properly again.
- LG Dryer dE dE tells you an LG dryer can't confirm its door is latched shut, so it won't spin the drum — usually because laundry is caught in the seal, the door wasn't pushed firmly enough, or the door switch is worn.
- LG Dryer tE2 tE2 is LG's temperature-sensor code that shows up in cold conditions — typically when outside air flows back through the exhaust during a steam cycle and cools the duct too fast — so it usually points to the vent and the weather rather than a broken sensor.
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