Your appliance flashed a code.
Here's what it's telling you.

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• Samsung 34 codes covered — washers & dishwashers & dryers
• LG 30 codes covered — washers & dishwashers & dryers
• Whirlpool 34 codes covered — washers & dishwashers
• Maytag 25 codes covered — washers & dishwashers
• Bosch 24 codes covered — dishwashers & washers
• Frigidaire 33 codes covered — dishwashers & washers
• Midea 8 codes covered — washers & dishwashers
• Comfee 5 codes covered — washers & dishwashers
• Insignia 3 codes covered — washers
• Danby 3 codes covered — dishwashers
• Hisense 5 codes covered — washers
• Magic Chef 3 codes covered — washers
• Black+Decker 3 codes covered — washers
• Haier 5 codes covered — washers
• Farberware 2 codes covered — dishwashers
• GE 21 codes covered — dishwashers & washers

No code? Start from the symptom

• Washer Won't Drain A washer that stops full of water almost always has a blocked drain path — usually the pump filter — and most machines flash a code that confirms it.
• Washer Not Filling With Water A washer that starts its cycle but never fills is usually being starved by something outside the machine — a part-closed tap, a kinked hose, or clogged inlet screens.
• Washer Shaking, Banging, or Refusing to Spin Violent shaking or a cancelled spin is nearly always an unbalanced load or an unlevel machine — both free to fix — rather than a broken part.
• Washer Door Stuck or Won't Lock Door trouble is usually mechanical and minor — trapped fabric, a gummed-up latch, or a lock that needs a power reset — though the lock assembly itself does wear out eventually.
• Too Many Suds in the Washer Excess foam makes a washer pause and run long suds-removal routines — and it traces back to detergent type or amount far more often than to any fault.
• Dishwasher Leak Alarm A leak alarm means moisture reached the sensor in the base pan under the tub — sometimes a real leak, but oversudsing and water sloshed during a move are famous false triggers.

All codes we cover

• Samsung Washer 4C Your Samsung washer isn't getting water — usually a closed tap, kinked fill hose, or clogged inlet screen rather than a broken machine.
• Samsung Washer 5C The washer can't drain — nine times out of ten the culprit is a clogged debris filter or a blocked drain hose, both of which you can clear yourself.
• Samsung Washer UE The load inside the drum is unbalanced, so the washer stopped before spinning at full speed — usually fixed by rearranging the laundry, not by repairs.
• Samsung Washer dC The washer thinks its door is open or not locked — most often a bit of laundry trapped in the door seal or debris in the latch, occasionally a failed door lock.
• Samsung Washer LC The washer's base-pan sensor detected water where it shouldn't be — sometimes a genuine leak, but quite often just oversudsing or a recently moved drain hose.
• Samsung Washer SUD The washer detected too much foam and paused to let the suds break down — almost always caused by too much detergent or the wrong (non-HE) type.
• Samsung Dishwasher LC Moisture reached the leak sensor in the dishwasher's drip pan — sometimes a real leak, but false alarms from a recent move, a spill, or even high humidity are well known.
• Samsung Dishwasher 4C The dishwasher isn't receiving enough water — start with the shut-off valve under the sink and the supply line before suspecting any failed part.
• Samsung Washer 1C The water level sensor is sending readings the washer can't trust, so it stops rather than risk overfilling — a reset occasionally clears it, but a failed sensor needs a technician.
• Samsung Washer 3C The motor didn't run the way the control board commanded — sometimes a one-off from an overloaded or jammed drum, but a repeating 3C points at the motor or its sensor wiring.
• Samsung Washer OC The washer detected more water than the cycle should ever contain — usually an inlet valve that won't fully close or a drain hose installed so it siphons water back in.
• Samsung Washer tC The temperature sensor is returning readings outside the range the washer considers possible, so heating control can't be trusted — try one reset, then it's a technician's sensor swap.
• Samsung Washer HC The washer's internal water heater ran too hot or its control failed — beyond a single reset, this is a mains-voltage repair that belongs to a technician.
• Samsung Washer AC The washer's main board and display board stopped talking to each other — a long unplug fixes the glitch cases, while persistent ones mean a wiring or board fault.
• Samsung Washer 8C The vibration (MEMS) sensor that watches drum movement reported a fault — sometimes provoked by an unlevel machine or wild load, otherwise the sensor itself has failed.
• Samsung Washer ddC The little AddWash door was opened without pressing Pause first, so the washer stopped to protect itself — close it properly and resume; a recurring ddC means the mini-door latch is faulty.
• Samsung Dishwasher 5C The dishwasher couldn't pump its water out — the filter and sump catch most of the blame, with the drain hose and a never-removed disposal knockout plug close behind.
• Samsung Dishwasher OC The dishwasher measured more water inside than any cycle should use — oversudsing fakes it, a stuck inlet valve causes it for real, and a sensor fault lies about it.
• Samsung Dishwasher HC The water inside exceeded the temperature any cycle should reach, which means the heater or its controls are misbehaving — a mains-voltage problem with no safe DIY path.
• Samsung Dishwasher 3C The circulation pump that sprays water around the tub didn't operate as commanded — restart once per Samsung's guidance, and if it returns, the pump needs professional attention.
• Samsung Dishwasher 9E The unit detected too little water while washing — sometimes a tall item is literally blocking or displacing the water path, otherwise the supply or level sensing is at fault.
• Samsung Dishwasher 7E The WaterWall reflector — the sliding bar that sweeps the spray across the tub — couldn't move, and the cause is usually tape, an obstruction, or the bar sitting off its rail.
• Samsung Dishwasher bE2 The control panel thinks a button is being held down continuously — residue and moisture cause most cases, a genuinely failed panel the rest.
• Samsung Dryer dC Your Samsung dryer shows dC when it can't confirm the door is shut and latched, so the drum won't turn — usually a door caught on laundry, a misaligned strike, or a tired latch switch rather than anything deep inside the machine.
• Samsung Dryer HC HC is Samsung's overheating warning: the dryer sensed the drum getting hotter than it should and cut the heat to stay safe — nine times out of ten because a clogged lint filter or blocked exhaust vent is trapping heat inside.
• Samsung Dryer tS tS on a Samsung dryer flags a problem with the temperature reading itself — the sensor is reporting a value the control doesn't trust — and the most common trigger is a clogged lint filter or vent throwing readings off rather than a dead part.
• Samsung Dryer 9C1 9C1 tells you the Samsung dryer is seeing abnormal electrical supply — too high, too low, or unstable — most often from an extension cord, a shared or miswired outlet, or a power cord that isn't fully seated.
• Samsung Dryer bE bE means the Samsung dryer thinks one of its panel buttons is stuck down or being held — often just a sticky or debris-blocked button that frees up once you power off and work each one back and forth.
• Samsung Dryer AC AC means the Samsung dryer's internal boards have lost reliable communication with each other — frequently a one-off glitch that a full power-down clears, but a persistent AC points to a wiring or control-board fault.
• Samsung Dryer FC FC on a Samsung dryer signals an invalid power-source frequency — the incoming AC isn't the steady frequency the dryer expects — which usually clears on a restart but can point to a generator, converter, or supply problem if it sticks.
• Samsung Dryer Cg Cg (and the C80 and C90 variants) is the result of Samsung's Vent Blockage self-test telling you the exhaust duct is clogged — the number roughly indicates how restricted it is — so the fix is to clean the lint filter and the entire vent line.
• Samsung Dryer 3C 3C is Samsung's motor error: the dryer isn't getting the drum motor to start, run, or report back correctly, so it stops the cycle — worth one power reset, but a repeat almost always means a motor or control fault for a technician.
• Samsung Dryer HC2 HC2 appears on gas Samsung dryers when the burner fails to ignite, so the drum turns but the clothes stay cold — and because every remaining cause is a gas component, this one goes to a licensed technician after a couple of safe checks.
• Samsung Dryer CL CL isn't a malfunction — it means Child Lock is switched on, which disables the Samsung dryer's control panel (and on some models locks the door) so buttons don't respond until you turn it back off.
• LG Washer OE Your LG washer couldn't pump the water out within its time limit — start with the drain pump filter behind the lower front panel, which fixes most OE errors.
• LG Washer IE Water isn't reaching the drum fast enough — usually a tap, hose, or inlet-screen issue you can sort out in a few minutes rather than a failed component.
• LG Washer UE The drum's load is too unbalanced to spin safely — small uE means the washer is fixing it by itself, capital UE means it gave up and needs your help.
• LG Washer LE The motor couldn't turn properly — often a one-off from an overloaded drum that clears after a rest, but a repeating LE usually means the motor's hall sensor has failed.
• LG Washer dE The washer can't confirm its door (or lid) is properly closed and locked — check for trapped fabric and a dirty latch before suspecting the lock assembly.
• LG Dishwasher OE The dishwasher can't drain its water — check the internal filter, the drain hose, and (after a new disposal install) the knockout plug everyone forgets to remove.
• LG Dishwasher AE The leak sensor in the base of the dishwasher detected water — the unit goes into a protective drain mode, and the cause ranges from oversudsing to a genuine seal failure.
• LG Dishwasher HE The dishwasher's water heating system isn't working as expected — and because it involves a high-wattage heater on mains power, this is one to hand to a technician.
• LG Washer FE Water rose higher than the cycle ever asked for — most often because an inlet valve isn't closing fully, which also explains drums that mysteriously fill while the machine is off.
• LG Washer tE The washer's temperature sensing is returning impossible readings, so heated cycles stop — worth one reset, after which the thermistor is the likely repair.
• LG Washer PE The pressure sensor that tells the washer how much water it holds is malfunctioning — a reset covers the glitch cases, and a sensor swap covers the rest.
• LG Washer CL CL isn't a fault at all — it's Child Lock, which freezes the control panel on purpose; holding the Child Lock button for about three seconds releases it.
• LG Washer PF Power to the washer cut out mid-cycle — harmless and self-explanatory after an outage, worth investigating when it happens on its own.
• LG Washer E6 The clutch that switches the top-loader between agitation and spin hit trouble — often something physically stuck between the pulsator and the tub, otherwise a failing clutch assembly.
• LG Dishwasher IE Ten minutes of filling didn't raise the water level enough — almost always a supply problem between the shut-off valve and the unit rather than a failed part.
• LG Dishwasher FE The unit detected more water than it should ever hold and started draining on its own — a stuck inlet valve or level-sensing fault is behind most cases.
• LG Dishwasher tE The unit measured water at an impossible temperature or its sensor failed outright — beyond one reset, this is heater-circuit territory that belongs to a technician.
• LG Dishwasher LE The circulation motor that powers the spray didn't run as commanded — debris and a reset cover the easy cases, and a worn motor accounts for the persistent ones.
• LG Dishwasher nE The small vario motor that switches spray pressure between the racks reported a fault — check for obstructions in its path, then it's a technician's part.
• LG Dryer d80 d80 is LG's Flow Sense system telling you the exhaust duct is about 75–80% restricted: the dryer keeps running but dries slowly, so treat it as an early warning to clean the lint filter and the full vent line before the blockage gets worse.
• LG Dryer d90 d90 — and the more severe d95 — is LG's Flow Sense system reacting to a badly blocked exhaust of 90% or more by cooling the dryer down and stopping the cycle, so unlike the milder d80 you have to clear the vent before it will run properly again.
• LG Dryer dE dE tells you an LG dryer can't confirm its door is latched shut, so it won't spin the drum — usually because laundry is caught in the seal, the door wasn't pushed firmly enough, or the door switch is worn.
• LG Dryer tE1 tE1, and the related tE3, means an LG dryer has detected a problem with its thermistor — the sensor that tracks drum temperature — so a factory reset clears a one-off glitch, but a code that keeps returning points to a failing sensor for a technician.
• LG Dryer tE2 tE2 is LG's temperature-sensor code that shows up in cold conditions — typically when outside air flows back through the exhaust during a steam cycle and cools the duct too fast — so it usually points to the vent and the weather rather than a broken sensor.
• LG Dryer HS HS means an LG dryer has detected a fault with its humidity sensor — the moisture sensor that decides when clothes are dry — and as a fallback the dryer runs a fixed cycle of about two and a half hours, so wiping the sensor contacts clean is the first thing to try.
• LG Dryer PF PF is LG's power-failure code, shown when the electricity to the dryer was cut mid-cycle, and it almost always clears with a simple factory reset rather than any repair.
• LG Dryer nP nP means an LG dryer isn't detecting any current at its heater, which normally points to the home's electrical supply — a half-dead 240-volt circuit, a tripped breaker, or a loose outlet connection — rather than the dryer itself, so the safe checks are the cord and breaker before an electrician.
• LG Dryer PS PS points to improper voltage reaching an LG dryer's control — classically because the white and red wires were crossed on the terminal block when the cord was installed — so it's an installation and wiring issue for a professional rather than a part that has failed.
• LG Dryer CL CL on an LG dryer simply means the Child Lock, also called the control lock, is switched on and disabling the control panel so settings can't be changed; it's a feature rather than a fault, and holding the Child Lock button for about three seconds turns it off.
• LG Dryer 9A5 9A5 — which spells 'gAS' on an LG dryer's display — appears on gas models when the dryer isn't receiving proper gas supply, so the drum turns but the clothes stay cold, and after checking that the gas valve is open the remaining causes are burner parts for a technician.
• Whirlpool Washer F8 E1 Your Whirlpool washer isn't detecting water coming in — usually a supply problem (taps, hoses, screens) rather than anything wrong inside the machine.
• Whirlpool Washer F9 E1 The washer took too long to drain — check the drain hose setup and the pump filter; the 'hose pushed too far down the standpipe' mistake causes a surprising share of these.
• Whirlpool Washer F5 E2 The washer tried to lock its door and couldn't — usually an obstruction or grime in the latch, sometimes a worn lock assembly that needs replacing.
• Whirlpool Washer SD Too much foam — the washer paused its cycle to break down excess suds, which almost always traces back to detergent amount or type rather than a fault.
• Whirlpool Washer F7 E1 The washer couldn't get its basket to the speed the cycle demanded — overloading and forgotten shipping bolts cause the embarrassing cases, a failing speed sensor the persistent ones.
• Whirlpool Washer F3 E1 The washer can't tell how much water it's holding — its pressure sensor is feeding the control board readings it can't use, and beyond a reset that's a technician's diagnosis.
• Whirlpool Washer F0 E2 The washer found more foam than it can rinse or drain through and paused to fight it — virtually always a detergent quantity or type problem rather than a fault.
• Whirlpool Washer F1 E1 The main control board flagged a fault inside itself — one long reset is worth trying, but a returning F1 E1 means professional diagnosis, not guesswork.
• Whirlpool Washer F5 E3 The washer tried to release its door lock and couldn't — usually cleared by draining fully and cutting power, with a worn lock assembly behind the stubborn cases.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 6-1 The control board never saw water arrive after opening the fill valve — usually a supply problem under the sink rather than a failed part inside the unit.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 8-1 The tub drained too slowly or not at all — food debris in the filter, buildup in the drain hose, or the garbage-disposal knockout plug are the usual culprits.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 7-1 The heating circuit isn't doing its job, so water stays cold and dishes finish wet — and because everything involved is on mains power, the repair belongs to a technician.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 9-1 The control lost track of the diverter — the rotating disc that aims water at different spray arms — usually debris interfering, a leaking diverter seal, or the diverter motor itself.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 1-1 The control board detected one of its own relays stuck on — a long power-off clears the false alarms, while a genuinely welded relay means board-level repair.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 3-1 The control lost a usable reading from the combined temperature-and-soil sensor in the sump, so it can no longer judge how hot or how dirty the water is — often a wiring or sensor fault, sometimes just a fouled sensor face.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 3-3 The machine could not calibrate its soil sensor on the last run — most often because used water is siphoning back into the tub through a failed one-way valve in the drain hose, so the water never looks clean.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 5-1 The control did not sense the door latched when the cycle tried to begin — frequently because the door was not pushed shut within a few seconds of pressing Start, and sometimes because the latch or its switches have worn out.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 5-2 The machine expected the door to be opened and closed between one cycle and the next, did not see it happen, and is refusing to start again — usually fixed in seconds by opening the door and shutting it.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 6-2 The control found the water inlet valve's electrical winding open, so the valve cannot be commanded to open and the tub will not fill — a failed valve is the usual answer, with a loose connector the hopeful exception.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 6-4 The overfill float switch — the machine's anti-flood backstop — is reading open, usually because the float is stuck or obstructed, occasionally because the inlet valve is dribbling water in when it should be shut.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 6-6 The water arriving at the dishwasher is colder than the cycle expects — around 110 to 120°F is normal at start — so the fix usually lies with your home's hot water rather than the machine.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 7-2 The control detected the heating element staying powered when it should have switched off — usually a welded heater relay on the control board — and because a heater stuck on is a safety matter, this is a one-reset-then-technician code.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 8-2 The control flagged an electrical fault in the drain pump circuit — an open motor winding or broken wiring — rather than the simple blockage behind the slow-drain code, so after the easy checks this usually means a new pump.
• Whirlpool Dishwasher 10-1 The control could not operate the detergent dispenser as expected, so soap may stay trapped in the cup and dishes finish poorly cleaned — often caked detergent or a jammed door, sometimes a failed dispenser.
• Whirlpool Washer F2 E1 Whirlpool reads F2 E1 when a button on the control panel stays active far longer than a real press — typically a physically stuck or sticky key, occasionally a touchpad that has begun to fail.
• Whirlpool Washer F5 E1 F5 E1 fires when the washer senses its door or lid switch open during a cycle that needs it shut — usually a door not latched firmly, an overstuffed drum holding it ajar, or a worn switch.
• Whirlpool Washer F6 E1 F6 E1 means the washer's main control board and its motor-control electronics stopped talking to each other — worth one power reset, but a code that returns is an internal wiring or board fault for a technician.
• Whirlpool Washer F6 E2 F6 E2 means the washer's main control board lost its data link with the control-panel (user-interface) board — try one full power reset; if it persists, a connector or one of the two boards needs service.
• Whirlpool Washer F7 E5 On Whirlpool top-load washers F7 E5 means the control cannot sense the basket turning correctly — most often the shifter actuator that engages the drive and reports rotation has failed.
• Whirlpool Washer F8 E2 F8 E2 flags a fault in the washer's dispenser system — the drawer or cartridge that meters detergent and softener — usually a clogged or poorly seated dispenser rather than anything mechanical.
• Whirlpool Washer F8 E3 F8 E3 is the overflow fault: the washer senses more water or foam in the tub than it should hold, often from over-sudsing or a slow drain, sometimes from an inlet valve that will not fully close.
• Whirlpool Washer oL The oL code is Whirlpool's overloaded message — the washer has detected more laundry than it can handle for that cycle and pauses for you to remove or redistribute some items.
• Whirlpool Washer uL uL is Whirlpool's unbalanced-load warning during the spin: the laundry has shifted to one side, so the washer slows or stops and adds water to even it out before it can spin up.
• Whirlpool Washer rL rL appears when the washer detects laundry in the drum during the Clean Washer cycle, which is meant to run empty — remove everything and the cycle can continue.
• Maytag Washer F8 E1 Your Maytag washer started filling but isn't sensing enough water arriving — nearly always a supply-side issue with the taps, hoses, or inlet screens rather than a fault inside the machine.
• Maytag Washer F9 E1 Your Maytag washer is taking too long to pump out — the machine flags F9 E1 when the water hasn't cleared within about eight minutes, usually because something is blocking the drain path.
• Maytag Washer F5 E2 Your Maytag washer tried to lock the door or lid and couldn't — most often something is physically blocking the latch, or the lock assembly itself has worn out.
• Maytag Washer F5 E3 Your Maytag washer finished but the door or lid won't release — usually because water is still in the tub holding the lock, with a worn lock assembly behind the stubborn cases.
• Maytag Washer F7 E1 Your Maytag washer's control isn't getting the motor speed it expects — F7 E1 is a basket/motor speed-sensing fault, often traced to drum drag, the shifter actuator, or the motor's speed sensor.
• Maytag Washer F0 E2 Your Maytag washer has detected too many suds and is running an automatic suds-reduction routine — almost always caused by too much detergent or a non-HE detergent rather than a hardware fault.
• Maytag Washer F8 E2 Your Maytag washer can't move its detergent dispenser into position — F8 E2 flags a dispenser-system fault, usually a clogged drawer or a stuck dispenser actuator.
• Maytag Washer F2 E1 Your Maytag washer's control thinks a button is stuck down — F2 E1 is a stuck-key fault, often from a held or sticky button, moisture on the panel, or a failing touch interface.
• Maytag Washer F1 E1 Your Maytag washer has logged a main control board fault — F1 E1 points to an internal error in the central control unit (ACU), and the only safe owner step is a power reset before calling a technician.
• Maytag Washer F3 E1 Your Maytag washer can't read its water level — F3 E1 indicates a pressure-sensor or water-level system fault, often a blocked pressure hose rather than the sensor itself.
• Maytag Washer oL Your Maytag washer is telling you the load is too big — the oL code means the basket is overloaded, and the fix is simply to take some laundry out and redistribute the rest.
• Maytag Washer uL Your Maytag washer has found an uneven load during spin — the uL code means the laundry is bunched to one side, and redistributing it lets the machine balance and spin up safely.
• Maytag Dishwasher F1 E1 Your Maytag's control board has flagged one of its own relays as stuck on — an output that should have switched off still reads live — and a full power-down often clears a false alarm, while a genuinely welded relay means board-level service.
• Maytag Dishwasher F2 E1 Your Maytag's control thinks one of the touchpad buttons is being held down — a stuck-button reading that's far more often caused by moisture or a sticky film on the panel than by a dead control.
• Maytag Dishwasher F3 E1 The combined temperature-and-soil sensor in your Maytag's sump has stopped giving the control a usable reading, so the machine can no longer tell how hot or how dirty the water is — sometimes just a fouled sensor face, sometimes a true sensor or wiring fault.
• Maytag Dishwasher F5 E1 Your Maytag tried to begin a cycle and didn't sense the door securely latched — most often because the door wasn't pushed shut quickly enough after pressing Start, and less often because the latch or its switches are wearing out.
• Maytag Dishwasher F5 E2 Your Maytag is refusing to start a fresh cycle because it never saw the door opened and closed since the last one — a deliberate check you usually satisfy just by opening the door and shutting it again.
• Maytag Dishwasher F6 E1 Your Maytag started a cycle, opened its fill valve, and never sensed water arriving — and nine times out of ten the holdup is in the household supply feeding the machine rather than the dishwasher itself.
• Maytag Dishwasher F6 E2 Where F6 E1 just says water never arrived, F6 E2 names the culprit: the inlet valve's own electrical coil is reading open, so the control can't drive it and no water gets through even with a perfect supply.
• Maytag Dishwasher F6 E4 The anti-flood float in the bottom of your Maytag — the mechanical backstop that halts filling if water climbs too high — is sending an open signal, most often because it's physically stuck rather than because the tub is actually flooding.
• Maytag Dishwasher F7 E1 The heating circuit in your Maytag isn't raising the water temperature the way the control expects, so washes stay cool and dishes come out wet — and because every part involved runs on mains power, this one belongs to a technician.
• Maytag Dishwasher F8 E1 Your Maytag ran its drain pump but the water didn't clear fast enough, so it flagged a slow drain — almost always a blockage you can reach yourself: the filter, the drain hose, or a garbage-disposal plug that was never knocked out.
• Maytag Dishwasher F8 E2 Unlike the slow-drain code, F8 E2 means the control sees something electrically wrong with the drain pump itself — an open motor winding or broken wiring — so once the easy blockage checks are done, this usually points to a new pump.
• Maytag Dishwasher F9 E1 Your Maytag has lost track of its diverter — the motor-driven disc that switches water between the upper and lower spray arms — which is why one rack may clean poorly and the control flags F9 E1.
• Maytag Dishwasher FA E1 Your Maytag couldn't operate the detergent dispenser as expected, so the soap may never release and dishes finish poorly cleaned — usually caked detergent or a jammed dispenser door, sometimes a failed dispenser.
• Bosch Dishwasher E15 Water reached the base pan under the tub and Bosch's leak protection locked the machine — sometimes a genuine leak, often a one-off spill or condensation that clears once the base dries.
• Bosch Dishwasher E24 The dishwasher can't drain properly — start with the filter, then the drain hose path, and don't skip checking that the drain pump cover is seated.
• Bosch Dishwasher E25 The drain pump itself is blocked or its cover is loose — and Bosch makes the pump cover owner-accessible, so this is one of the most fixable codes the brand throws.
• Bosch Dishwasher E09 The heating system isn't raising the water temperature — beyond one reset, the flow-through heater is a mains-voltage part that belongs to a technician.
• Bosch Dishwasher E14 The flow meter that counts water into the machine stopped making sense, so filling can't be trusted — a reset and supply check first, then it's a sensor-level repair.
• Bosch Dishwasher E17 Water is rushing in faster than the fill system expects — household pressure at the high end or an inlet valve not throttling properly are the leading explanations.
• Bosch Dishwasher E01 Bosch's control board has flagged a fault in the circuit that drives the heat pump motor — the part that both circulates and heats the water — so beyond a single power reset, E01 is a board-level repair for a technician.
• Bosch Dishwasher E02 A switching relay on the Bosch dishwasher's main control board is not behaving as the electronics expect — Bosch reports this as both E02 and E03 — so try one power reset, then it is a board-level repair.
• Bosch Dishwasher E04 During its power-on self-test the Bosch dishwasher found a fault in the heating electronics, so it shows E04 and holds back rather than energising the heater — a technician diagnosis after a single reset.
• Bosch Dishwasher E05 The circuit that runs the diverter — the valve that switches water between the upper and lower spray arms — has faulted on the Bosch control board, so after one reset E05 is a technician repair.
• Bosch Dishwasher E06 Bosch's E06 means the door-sensing circuit faulted — on most recent models the latch's reed switch cannot detect that the door is shut — so check the door closes firmly, reset once, then call a technician.
• Bosch Dishwasher E07 On Bosch dishwashers with CrystalDry, E07 means the zeolite drying fan motor has faulted — the fan that pushes warm air over the drying mineral — so after one reset it is a technician repair on those models.
• Bosch Dishwasher E12 E12 is not a breakdown — it is Bosch telling you limescale has built up in the heat pump and the dishwasher needs descaling, which you can do yourself with a dishwasher descaler.
• Bosch Dishwasher E18 Bosch's E18 means the dishwasher is not getting enough water — the level stayed too low — so check the inlet hose, the supply valve, and that water actually reaches the machine before calling for service.
• Bosch Dishwasher E19 E19 means the circuit that releases the Bosch detergent dispenser has faulted — the solenoid that pops the flap open mid-cycle — so clear any residue, reset once, then expect a technician repair.
• Bosch Dishwasher E22 E22 is one of the most fixable Bosch codes: the filter at the bottom of the tub is blocked and water is backing up in the sump, so cleaning the filter usually clears it.
• Bosch Washer E17 Bosch's E17 — shown as F17 or F29 on some models — means the washer couldn't draw water quickly enough to fill, almost always because the inlet-hose filter screen is clogged, the tap isn't fully open, or household water pressure is low.
• Bosch Washer E18 Bosch's E18 — the F18 display on some models — means the washer couldn't drain within the expected time, most often because the pump filter is clogged with lint and coins or the drain hose is kinked or pushed too far down the standpipe.
• Bosch Washer E23 Bosch's E23 — F23 on some displays — means the washer's AquaStop leak protection detected water in the base tray and cut the machine off to stop a flood, sometimes from a genuine leak but often from overfoaming, a hose weep, or a spill during a move.
• Bosch Washer E16 Bosch's E16 — displayed as E34, F16 or F34 on some models — means the door isn't locking, so the machine refuses to start, most often because a bit of laundry is caught in the seal or the door wasn't pushed until it clicked.
• Bosch Washer E32 Bosch's E32 — F32 on some models — means the drum couldn't balance the load for the spin, so the machine slows or skips the high-speed spin to protect itself, usually because of a single bulky item or a tangled clump on one side.
• Bosch Washer E33 Bosch's E33 — shown as F33 on some models — means the machine detected excessive foam, nearly always from too much detergent or the wrong (non-HE) type, which makes the wash slow down or pause while it deals with the suds.
• Bosch Washer E80 Bosch's E80 flags a fault in the drive circuit — the power electronics that control the motor — which is an internal, mains-voltage fault the owner can't repair beyond a single power reset.
• Bosch Washer H9E Bosch's H9E, usually shown with a water-tap symbol, means the washer isn't receiving hot water on models plumbed to a hot supply — typically because the hot tap is off, the hot hose is kinked, the strainer is clogged, or hot-water pressure is low.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher i10 Water isn't reaching the tub fast enough — the under-sink valve, a kinked line, or a stuck float explain most i10 errors before any part needs replacing.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher i20 The unit didn't drain properly — Frigidaire's filters and glass trap clog like any brand's, and the drain hose and disposal connection make up the rest of the usual story.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher i30 Water collected in the pan beneath the tub and the anti-leak response took over — the cause ranges from a one-off overflow or suds episode to a genuine seal failure.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher i60 The water isn't heating the way the cycle requires — the element, its relay, or the temperature sensor is at fault, and all of them are mains-voltage parts for a professional.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher i40 Food soil has built up in the sump and filter to the point water can't circulate freely, and Frigidaire's own remedy is to pull the glass trap and filter and rinse them clean.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher CL The control hasn't sensed the door fully shut and latched, so it won't start the cycle — usually a door left a touch ajar, an item poking past the tub, or a strike knocked out of line.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher PF Power to the dishwasher was cut mid-cycle and it's flagging the interruption — a one-off after an outage clears with a button press, while a PF that keeps returning points at the supply.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher Hd Hd and HO aren't errors at all — they show the dishwasher is pausing to bring the wash or rinse water up to temperature, a normal wait that runs longer the colder your incoming water is.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher LOC LOC means the control lock — the child lock — is switched on, freezing the buttons so the cycle can't be changed or started until you unlock it with the Delay Start pad.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher i50 The control board has flagged a problem driving the wash motor — the circulation pump that powers the spray arms — and because that's a mains-voltage motor sealed under the tub, it's a repair for a technician.
• Frigidaire Dishwasher iC0 The dishwasher's control boards have lost reliable communication — the keypad/display board and the main board aren't exchanging signals — which a power reset sometimes clears but otherwise needs a technician.
• Frigidaire Washer E11 Your Frigidaire front-load washer opened its fill valve but the water level didn't rise fast enough and timed out — almost always a restricted supply at the taps, hoses, or inlet screens rather than a dead valve.
• Frigidaire Washer E13 Your Frigidaire front-load washer has detected a leak — either water escaping the outer tub or, just as often, an air leak in the thin hose that lets the pressure sensor read the water level.
• Frigidaire Washer E20 Your Frigidaire front-load washer can't pump the water out, almost always because something is blocking the drain path — the pump filter, the drain hose, or the standpipe — rather than a failed pump.
• Frigidaire Washer E21 Your Frigidaire front-load washer is draining, but too slowly to satisfy the control within its time limit — usually a partial blockage in the pump filter or hose, or a drain pump that is losing strength.
• Frigidaire Washer E23 Your Frigidaire front-load washer is reporting that the drain-pump relay on its main control board has failed, or the pump's wiring has come loose — a power reset is worth trying, but the repair is a technician's job.
• Frigidaire Washer E31 Your Frigidaire front-load washer's control board has lost communication with the water-level pressure sensor, so it can't tell how full the tub is — a reset may clear a glitch, but a persistent E31 is a sensor or wiring repair.
• Frigidaire Washer E35 Your Frigidaire front-load washer's water-level sensor is reporting more water than it should — either the tub really is overfilling from a stuck inlet valve, or the sensor is misreading; shut the taps and have it checked before running it.
• Frigidaire Washer E41 Your Frigidaire front-load washer isn't getting a 'door locked' signal, so it refuses to start — often just a door that hasn't latched fully, but a worn door-lock assembly is the most common real fault behind E41.
• Frigidaire Washer E47 Your Frigidaire front-load washer saw the door-lock circuit open during the spin step, so it stopped — usually a door-lock assembly that is failing under the vibration of high-speed spin rather than anything you did.
• Frigidaire Washer EF1 Your Frigidaire front-load washer is flagging a clogged drain pump with EF1 — usually debris in the pump filter or heavy suds slowing the drain, and one of the more owner-fixable codes on the machine.
• Frigidaire Washer EF2 Your Frigidaire front-load washer is detecting excessive suds with EF2 — almost always too much detergent or non-HE detergent, fixed by cutting the dose and running a rinse rather than any repair.
• Frigidaire Washer E14 Your Frigidaire front-load washer can't confirm the detergent dispenser drawer is shut, so it stops — usually a drawer that isn't pushed fully in or a dislodged magnet, not a failed part.
• Frigidaire Washer E42 Your Frigidaire front-load washer finished its cycle but the door lock didn't release, so it reports E42 — a power reset frees most cases, though a worn lock that won't disengage is the usual real fault.
• Frigidaire Washer E52 Your Frigidaire front-load washer is getting a faulty signal from the drive-motor tachometer — the sensor that reports drum speed — so it can't control the spin and stops with E52.
• Frigidaire Washer E55 Your Frigidaire front-load washer's drive motor has overheated and tripped its thermal protection, pausing the cycle — often after very heavy or back-to-back loads, though a dragging drum or failing motor can also be behind it.
• Frigidaire Washer E5B Your Frigidaire front-load washer is reporting that the motor-control board — the electronics that drive the motor — has overheated at its heat sink, so it paused; E5A, E5B, and E5C all mean the same thing.
• Frigidaire Washer E5D Your Frigidaire front-load washer's main control board and motor-control board have stopped communicating, so the machine halts with E5D — E5E and E5F report the same break in that link.
• Frigidaire Washer E67 Your Frigidaire front-load washer's main control board is getting an incorrect supply voltage to its microprocessor, so it stops with E67 — a reset clears a transient, but a persistent E67 is a failing board.
• Frigidaire Washer E75 Your Frigidaire front-load washer can't get a valid reading from its wash-water temperature sensor, so it reports E75 — the sensor sits in the inlet-valve assembly and its failure is an internal repair.
• Frigidaire Washer EB1 Your Frigidaire front-load washer sees the incoming power frequency outside its acceptable range and stops with EB1 — most often because it's running on generator, inverter, or UPS power rather than a clean wall supply.
• Frigidaire Washer EB2 Your Frigidaire front-load washer measured incoming voltage above roughly 130 V and stopped to protect itself with EB2 — an over-voltage problem in the household supply rather than a fault inside the machine.
• Frigidaire Washer EB3 Your Frigidaire front-load washer measured incoming voltage below roughly 90 V and stopped with EB3 — an under-voltage or brownout condition in the supply, commonly caused by an extension cord or an overloaded circuit.
• Midea Washer E1 Your Midea washer isn't getting enough water during fill — E1 points to the supply side (taps, inlet hose, mesh filter) far more often than to the machine itself.
• Midea Washer E2 Your Midea washer can't pump the water out — E2 flags a drain that didn't complete in time, usually a kinked or too-high drain hose or a clogged pump filter.
• Midea Washer E3 Your Midea washer doesn't think the lid is shut — E3 is the lid/lid-switch fault, so the machine won't spin until it's satisfied the lid is closed.
• Midea Washer E4 Your Midea washer found the load lopsided during spin — E4 is the out-of-balance fault, cleared by spreading the laundry evenly and levelling the machine.
• Midea Dishwasher E1 Your Midea dishwasher didn't take in water within the allowed time — E1 is the fill (inlet) timeout, usually a closed tap, kinked hose, or clogged inlet screen.
• Midea Dishwasher E2 Your Midea dishwasher couldn't drain in time — E2 is the drain timeout, usually a clogged filter, kinked drain hose, or a disposer plug left in place.
• Midea Dishwasher E3 Your Midea dishwasher isn't reaching wash temperature — E3 is the heating fault, and because it sits on the heater circuit it's a technician repair after a single reset.
• Midea Dishwasher E4 Your Midea dishwasher detected too much water or a leak — E4 is the anti-flood (overflow) trip, so the first move is to shut off the water and dry the base pan.
• Comfee Washer E1 Your Comfee washer isn't filling — E1 is the water-inlet fault, usually a faucet adapter that's loose or half-open, a kinked hose, or a clogged inlet screen.
• Comfee Washer E2 Your Comfee washer can't pump out the water — E2 is the drain fault, usually a kinked drain hose, a hose draped too high, or a clogged filter.
• Comfee Washer E4 Your Comfee washer can't balance the load for spin — E4 is the out-of-balance fault, fixed by spreading the laundry evenly and levelling the machine.
• Comfee Dishwasher E1 Your Comfee dishwasher didn't fill in time — E1 (the manual calls it 'longer inlet time') is a water-intake fault, usually a tap, hose, or inlet-screen issue.
• Comfee Dishwasher E4 Your Comfee dishwasher sensed an overflow — E4 is the anti-flood trip, so turn off the water and dry the base pan before doing anything else.
• Insignia Washer E1 Your Insignia washer didn't fill in time — E1 means over 30 minutes to fill, or the level not changing for five minutes, almost always a supply-side problem.
• Insignia Washer E2 Your Insignia washer couldn't drain in time — E2 appears when draining takes more than about 10 minutes, usually a blocked drain path.
• Insignia Washer E3 Your Insignia washer doesn't sense the lid as closed — E3 is the lid-open / lid-lock fault, so it won't spin until that's resolved.
• Danby Dishwasher E1 Your Danby dishwasher isn't getting water in fast enough — E1 means restricted intake or low pressure, usually a tap, hose, or inlet-screen issue.
• Danby Dishwasher E3 Your Danby dishwasher isn't heating the water — E3 is the heating-element fault, and because it sits on the heater circuit it's a technician repair after a single reset.
• Danby Dishwasher E4 Your Danby dishwasher sensed an overflow — E4 is the anti-flood trip, so shut off the water and dry the base tray before restarting.
• Hisense Washer F01 Your Hisense washer isn't filling — F01 is the water-inlet fault, usually a closed tap, a kinked hose, or a clogged inlet filter rather than the valve.
• Hisense Washer F02 Your Hisense washer sensed too much water — F02 is the overflow fault, so turn off the tap; the usual causes are a stuck inlet valve or a pressure-sensor problem.
• Hisense Washer F03 Your Hisense washer can't drain — F03 is the drainage fault, usually a clogged pump filter, a kinked drain hose, or a blocked standpipe.
• Hisense Washer dE Your Hisense washer can't confirm the door is locked — dE is the door-lock fault, so the cycle won't start until it's satisfied the door is shut.
• Hisense Washer FA Your Hisense washer detected a leak — FA is the anti-flood trip, so turn off the supply; finding and fixing the leak is a technician job.
• Magic Chef Washer E1 Your Magic Chef washer can't fill in time — E1 is the 'water hose' alarm, usually a tap not fully open, a kinked inlet hose, or low water pressure.
• Magic Chef Washer E3 Your Magic Chef washer can't balance the load to spin — E3 is the imbalance alarm, cleared by redistributing the wet laundry and levelling the machine.
• Magic Chef Washer E4 Your Magic Chef washer couldn't drain in time — E4 is the drain alarm, raised when the tub doesn't empty within about four minutes, usually a kinked or badly placed drain hose.
• Black+Decker Washer E1 Your Black+Decker washer didn't fill in time — E1 appears after about 30 minutes of filling without reaching the set level, nearly always a supply problem.
• Black+Decker Washer E3 Your Black+Decker washer flags E3 when the lid isn't sensed as closed and locked, or the spin went out of balance several times — close the lid firmly and redistribute the wet load.
• Black+Decker Washer E4 Your Black+Decker washer can't drain — E4 points to a drainage problem (or the water-level sensor), usually a kinked or badly placed drain hose or a clogged filter.
• Haier Washer dO Your Haier portable washer thinks the lid is open — dO (shown as E0 or E2 on some units) is the lid-switch code, so it won't spin until the lid reads closed.
• Haier Washer dd Your Haier washer flagged dd during the spin — it's the out-of-balance code, cleared by spreading the load evenly and levelling the machine.
• Haier Washer Err5 Your full-size Haier washer didn't fill to level in time — Err5 is the fill fault, usually a closed tap, a kinked hose, or a clogged inlet filter.
• Haier Washer Err2 Your Haier washer couldn't pump out in time — Err2 is the drain fault, raised when the tank doesn't empty within the program's drain window, usually a blocked filter or hose.
• Haier Washer Err7 Your Haier washer detected a motor-speed fault — Err7 is a motor/control error, and beyond a single power reset it's a technician repair.
• Farberware Dishwasher E1 Your Farberware countertop dishwasher didn't fill in time — E1 is the water-intake ('longer inlet time') fault, usually a tap, faucet adapter, or hose issue.
• Farberware Dishwasher E4 Your Farberware dishwasher sensed water in its base pan — E4 is the anti-flood/overflow trip, so turn off the water and dry the base pan before restarting.
• GE Dishwasher C1 Your GE dishwasher is draining, but too slowly for the control's liking — the water path is partly restricted, usually at the air gap, the drain hose, or a disposer that hasn't been run.
• GE Dishwasher C2 Draining ran well past the time GE allows — about seven minutes — pointing to a heavier blockage than the milder C1, though the things to check are the same trio.
• GE Dishwasher C3 The dishwasher didn't drain at all, and GE's first move for C3 is a brief power reset — if water still won't leave afterward, the drain path or pump needs attention.
• GE Dishwasher C4 C4 means the dishwasher refilled twice after a power interruption, which usually traces to a stuck overfill float or a clogged sump rather than anything electrical.
• GE Dishwasher C5 C5 fires when the drain finishes far too quickly, which normally means there was little water to pump out — a supply that's off, a slow fill, or a float telling the control the tub is empty.
• GE Dishwasher C6 C6 means the water arriving at the dishwasher is colder than the roughly 120°F it wants — usually a water-heater setting or cold water sitting in the supply line, not a fault inside the machine.
• GE Dishwasher C7 C7 means the dishwasher's water temperature sensor circuit has stopped reading correctly — worth one power reset in case it's a glitch, but a repeat means the sensor needs a technician.
• GE Dishwasher C8 C8 means the detergent cup couldn't open fully during the wash, almost always because a tall item or stray utensil in the lower rack is blocking the dispenser door.
• GE Dishwasher PF PF simply records that power to the dishwasher was interrupted mid-cycle — reselecting your cycle and pressing Start clears it, with no repair needed unless it keeps happening.
• GE Dishwasher H2O H2O signals a low-water condition — the dishwasher isn't getting the water it expects — and on most cycles the first checks are a kinked inlet hose and a part-closed supply valve.
• GE Dishwasher FTD FTD — shown as F56 on some models — means the dishwasher failed to drain, and the three things to check are the same external trio: the drain hose, the countertop air gap, and the garbage disposer.
• GE Washer 1 GE front-load washer code 1 means the control saw the drum spinning while it believed the door was still unlocked, which usually points to the door lock/switch or its wiring rather than the drum itself.
• GE Washer 3 GE front-load washer code 3 means the drive motor tried to turn the basket but couldn't, and the most frequent reason is simply too much laundry packed in.
• GE Washer 8 GE front-load washer code 8 means the water-level pressure system isn't giving the control a believable reading, which shows up either as the washer not filling or as the sensor itself misreading.
• GE Washer 9 GE front-load washer code 9 is a reminder, not a breakdown: the control has counted three cycles in a row without the door being opened, which it treats as a sign the door switch may be stuck.
• GE Washer 18 GE front-load washer code 18 means the water isn't leaving the tub in time, so the drain path — hose, pump filter, or pump — is blocked or restricted somewhere.
• GE Washer 22 GE front-load washer code 22 means the washer couldn't settle the load into balance at the start of the cycle, most often because the laundry is bunched or the machine isn't level.
• GE Washer 23 GE front-load washer code 23, and its twin 24, means the door failed to lock at the start of the cycle, and until it locks the washer won't run.
• GE Washer 26 GE front-load washer code 26, shown as 31 on some models, means the drum couldn't reach a stable high-speed spin because the load shifted out of balance.
• GE Washer 27 GE front-load washer code 27 means the door has been standing open for more than fifteen minutes while there's still water in the tub, so the washer flags the paused, water-holding state.
• GE Washer 29 GE front-load washer code 29 means too much foam built up and blocked draining, so the washer paused the cycle until the suds clear.

No matching codes yet — try the brand name or just the code itself.