Washer, dryer & dishwasher error codes Your appliance flashed a code.
Your appliance flashed a code.
Here's what it's telling you.
Every guide gives you the same clinical treatment: what the code means in plain English, the most likely causes ranked by probability, the fixes that are safe to try yourself — and a clear line where a technician should take over.
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- Samsung 34 codes covered — washers & dishwashers & dryers
- LG 30 codes covered — washers & dishwashers & dryers
- Whirlpool 34 codes covered — washers & dishwashers
- Maytag 25 codes covered — washers & dishwashers
- Bosch 24 codes covered — dishwashers & washers
- Frigidaire 33 codes covered — dishwashers & washers
- Midea 8 codes covered — washers & dishwashers
- Comfee 5 codes covered — washers & dishwashers
- Insignia 3 codes covered — washers
- Danby 3 codes covered — dishwashers
- Hisense 5 codes covered — washers
- Magic Chef 3 codes covered — washers
- Black+Decker 3 codes covered — washers
- Haier 5 codes covered — washers
- Farberware 2 codes covered — dishwashers
- GE 21 codes covered — dishwashers & washers
No code? Start from the symptom
- Washer Won't Drain A washer that stops full of water almost always has a blocked drain path — usually the pump filter — and most machines flash a code that confirms it.
- Washer Not Filling With Water A washer that starts its cycle but never fills is usually being starved by something outside the machine — a part-closed tap, a kinked hose, or clogged inlet screens.
- Washer Shaking, Banging, or Refusing to Spin Violent shaking or a cancelled spin is nearly always an unbalanced load or an unlevel machine — both free to fix — rather than a broken part.
- Washer Door Stuck or Won't Lock Door trouble is usually mechanical and minor — trapped fabric, a gummed-up latch, or a lock that needs a power reset — though the lock assembly itself does wear out eventually.
- Too Many Suds in the Washer Excess foam makes a washer pause and run long suds-removal routines — and it traces back to detergent type or amount far more often than to any fault.
- Dishwasher Leak Alarm A leak alarm means moisture reached the sensor in the base pan under the tub — sometimes a real leak, but oversudsing and water sloshed during a move are famous false triggers.
Search results
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Popular fixes right now
These are the guides people are currently looking for most often.
- Insignia Washer E3 Your Insignia washer doesn't sense the lid as closed — E3 is the lid-open / lid-lock fault, so it won't spin until that's resolved.
- Comfee Dishwasher E1 Your Comfee dishwasher didn't fill in time — E1 (the manual calls it 'longer inlet time') is a water-intake fault, usually a tap, hose, or inlet-screen issue.
- Comfee Dishwasher E4 Your Comfee dishwasher sensed an overflow — E4 is the anti-flood trip, so turn off the water and dry the base pan before doing anything else.
- GE Dishwasher PF PF simply records that power to the dishwasher was interrupted mid-cycle — reselecting your cycle and pressing Start clears it, with no repair needed unless it keeps happening.
- Midea Washer E1 Your Midea washer isn't getting enough water during fill — E1 points to the supply side (taps, inlet hose, mesh filter) far more often than to the machine itself.
- GE Washer 9 GE front-load washer code 9 is a reminder, not a breakdown: the control has counted three cycles in a row without the door being opened, which it treats as a sign the door switch may be stuck.
- Black+Decker Washer E1 Your Black+Decker washer didn't fill in time — E1 appears after about 30 minutes of filling without reaching the set level, nearly always a supply problem.
- Magic Chef Washer E1 Your Magic Chef washer can't fill in time — E1 is the 'water hose' alarm, usually a tap not fully open, a kinked inlet hose, or low water pressure.