GE Error Codes

Pick the code your GE appliance is showing. Each page explains what the code means, the most likely causes ranked by probability, and which fixes are safe to try before calling a technician.

GE Dishwasher Codes

• C1 Your GE dishwasher is draining, but too slowly for the control's liking — the water path is partly restricted, usually at the air gap, the drain hose, or a disposer that hasn't been run.
• C2 Draining ran well past the time GE allows — about seven minutes — pointing to a heavier blockage than the milder C1, though the things to check are the same trio.
• C3 The dishwasher didn't drain at all, and GE's first move for C3 is a brief power reset — if water still won't leave afterward, the drain path or pump needs attention.
• C4 C4 means the dishwasher refilled twice after a power interruption, which usually traces to a stuck overfill float or a clogged sump rather than anything electrical.
• C5 C5 fires when the drain finishes far too quickly, which normally means there was little water to pump out — a supply that's off, a slow fill, or a float telling the control the tub is empty.
• C6 C6 means the water arriving at the dishwasher is colder than the roughly 120°F it wants — usually a water-heater setting or cold water sitting in the supply line, not a fault inside the machine.
• C7 C7 means the dishwasher's water temperature sensor circuit has stopped reading correctly — worth one power reset in case it's a glitch, but a repeat means the sensor needs a technician.
• C8 C8 means the detergent cup couldn't open fully during the wash, almost always because a tall item or stray utensil in the lower rack is blocking the dispenser door.
• PF PF simply records that power to the dishwasher was interrupted mid-cycle — reselecting your cycle and pressing Start clears it, with no repair needed unless it keeps happening.
• H2O H2O signals a low-water condition — the dishwasher isn't getting the water it expects — and on most cycles the first checks are a kinked inlet hose and a part-closed supply valve.
• FTD FTD — shown as F56 on some models — means the dishwasher failed to drain, and the three things to check are the same external trio: the drain hose, the countertop air gap, and the garbage disposer.

GE Washer Codes

• 1 GE front-load washer code 1 means the control saw the drum spinning while it believed the door was still unlocked, which usually points to the door lock/switch or its wiring rather than the drum itself.
• 3 GE front-load washer code 3 means the drive motor tried to turn the basket but couldn't, and the most frequent reason is simply too much laundry packed in.
• 8 GE front-load washer code 8 means the water-level pressure system isn't giving the control a believable reading, which shows up either as the washer not filling or as the sensor itself misreading.
• 9 GE front-load washer code 9 is a reminder, not a breakdown: the control has counted three cycles in a row without the door being opened, which it treats as a sign the door switch may be stuck.
• 18 GE front-load washer code 18 means the water isn't leaving the tub in time, so the drain path — hose, pump filter, or pump — is blocked or restricted somewhere.
• 22 GE front-load washer code 22 means the washer couldn't settle the load into balance at the start of the cycle, most often because the laundry is bunched or the machine isn't level.
• 23 GE front-load washer code 23, and its twin 24, means the door failed to lock at the start of the cycle, and until it locks the washer won't run.
• 26 GE front-load washer code 26, shown as 31 on some models, means the drum couldn't reach a stable high-speed spin because the load shifted out of balance.
• 27 GE front-load washer code 27 means the door has been standing open for more than fifteen minutes while there's still water in the tub, so the washer flags the paused, water-holding state.
• 29 GE front-load washer code 29 means too much foam built up and blocked draining, so the washer paused the cycle until the suds clear.