GE Error Codes

Pick the code your GE appliance is showing. Each page explains what the code means, the most likely causes ranked by probability, and which fixes are safe to try before calling a technician.

GE Dishwasher Codes

• C1 Your GE dishwasher is draining, but too slowly for the control's liking — the water path is partly restricted, usually at the air gap, the drain hose, or a disposer that hasn't been run.
• C2 Draining ran well past the time GE allows — about seven minutes — pointing to a heavier blockage than the milder C1, though the things to check are the same trio.
• C3 The dishwasher didn't drain at all, and GE's first move for C3 is a brief power reset — if water still won't leave afterward, the drain path or pump needs attention.
• C4 C4 means the dishwasher refilled twice after a power interruption, which usually traces to a stuck overfill float or a clogged sump rather than anything electrical.
• C5 C5 fires when the drain finishes far too quickly, which normally means there was little water to pump out — a supply that's off, a slow fill, or a float telling the control the tub is empty.
• C6 C6 means the water arriving at the dishwasher is colder than the roughly 120°F it wants — usually a water-heater setting or cold water sitting in the supply line, not a fault inside the machine.
• C7 C7 means the dishwasher's water temperature sensor circuit has stopped reading correctly — worth one power reset in case it's a glitch, but a repeat means the sensor needs a technician.
• C8 C8 means the detergent cup couldn't open fully during the wash, almost always because a tall item or stray utensil in the lower rack is blocking the dispenser door.
• PF PF simply records that power to the dishwasher was interrupted mid-cycle — reselecting your cycle and pressing Start clears it, with no repair needed unless it keeps happening.
• H2O H2O signals a low-water condition — the dishwasher isn't getting the water it expects — and on most cycles the first checks are a kinked inlet hose and a part-closed supply valve.
• FTD FTD — shown as F56 on some models — means the dishwasher failed to drain, and the three things to check are the same external trio: the drain hose, the countertop air gap, and the garbage disposer.

GE Refrigerator Codes

• FF FF on a GE refrigerator is a freezer-temperature alarm: the freezer ran too warm, usually from a door-seal or airflow problem before any parts failure.
• PF PF on a GE refrigerator means power was interrupted. It's a notice, not a fault: check the contents, clear the message, and only investigate further if PF keeps returning.
• CI CI is GE's 'check icemaker' advisory: the icemaker isn't working right. The arm, an ice dam, and the icemaker's test switch settle most cases.
• dE dE on a GE refrigerator is the defrost alarm: the unit hasn't completed a defrost in 24 hours, so frost is building on the evaporator. Seals and ventilation first, then the defrost loop.
• CC CC on a GE refrigerator is a temperature-check message for the fresh-food section: the fridge is running too warm or the reading is off. Vents and load first, then the sensor.

GE Range Codes

• F1 F1 on a GE range points at the keypad (keypanel): a stuck key, moisture under the touch panel, or the keypad's own circuit — occasionally the control board behind it.
• F2 F2 (F20 on some models) on a GE range is the over-temperature alarm: the oven exceeded its heat limit — usually a stuck bake or broil element, sometimes a sensor.
• F3 F3 on a GE range is the oven temperature sensor fault — the probe reads open circuit (F4 is the shorted variant). Reset first, then a sensor or wiring diagnosis.
• F5 F5 on a GE range is the control-board fault: the main electronic control isn't behaving — shown as F8 or FF on some models. Reset once; recurring F5 means a board.
• F9 F9 on a GE range is the door-lock error, shown as F0 or FC on some models: the oven door latch didn't lock when it should — usually for self-clean. Door and latch checks first.
• F350 F350 on GE wall ovens is the upper-oven cooling fan error: the fan that cools the electronics isn't turning or isn't reporting. Visual and spin checks first.
• Bad Line 'Bad Line' (BL) on a GE range means the 240-volt supply isn't correct — a missing leg, wrong outlet, or open neutral. It's mains-wiring territory for an electrician.
• F4 F4 on a GE range means the oven sensor is the likely culprit — GE's own chart says the sensor usually needs replacing. It's the paired reading with F3, so reset first, then diagnose.
• F6 F6 on a GE range is a keypad fault — GE's chart reads that there is a problem with the keypanel, often needing replacement. Clean it, reset, then diagnose.
• F7 F7 on a GE range is a keypad fault — GE's chart reads that there is a problem with the keypanel, often meaning replacement. Clean it, reset, then diagnose.
• FD FD on a GE range points at the temperature probe or the receptacle it plugs into — the roast thermometer. Inspect the probe, its jack, and reset before a diagnosis.
• ERR ERR on a GE range means there was an invalid entry when setting the oven controls — a setting combination the oven won't accept. Re-enter carefully and it clears.

GE Microwave Codes

• F1 F1 means the thermal sensor circuit reads open — or the oven detected excessive heat. Cool it down and try the 30-second reset.
• F2 F2 is a shorted thermal sensor fault — the sensor circuit reads closed when it shouldn't, so the oven locks out.
• F3 F3 means the touch pad is reading as shorted — often a key pressed over 60 seconds or moisture on the pad.
• F4 F4 means the humidity sensor circuit reads open — the sensor that tracks steam during cooking isn't reporting, so the oven locks out.
• F5 F5 means the humidity sensor reads shorted — the steam sensor is stuck in one state, so sensor-cook cycles lock out.
• PF PF (also shown as 888 or 8888) just announces a power failure — clear it, set the clock, and carry on. No part is broken.