Dryer Not Heating — What to Check First

A dryer that tumbles but won't heat usually has restricted airflow, a failed element or thermostat, or a missing 240-volt leg — and the code often names exactly which.

A dryer that spins but never warms is one of the most diagnosable appliances in the house: heat needs exhaust to flow freely, a source to make it (element or igniter), and the right supply voltage. Codes split cleanly across those three worlds.

Do the checks below first — most 'no heat' cases end with a thorough vent cleaning, not a part.

Error codes that match this symptom

• Samsung Dryer HC HC is Samsung's overheating warning: the dryer sensed the drum getting hotter than it should and cut the heat to stay safe — nine times out of ten because a clogged lint filter or blocked exhaust vent is trapping heat inside.
• Samsung Dryer HC2 HC2 appears on gas Samsung dryers when the burner fails to ignite, so the drum turns but the clothes stay cold — and because every remaining cause is a gas component, this one goes to a licensed technician after a couple of safe checks.
• Samsung Dryer tS tS on a Samsung dryer flags a problem with the temperature reading itself — the sensor is reporting a value the control doesn't trust — and the most common trigger is a clogged lint filter or vent throwing readings off rather than a dead part.
• LG Dryer d90 d90 — and the more severe d95 — is LG's Flow Sense system reacting to a badly blocked exhaust of 90% or more by cooling the dryer down and stopping the cycle, so unlike the milder d80 you have to clear the vent before it will run properly again.
• LG Dryer tE1 tE1, and the related tE3, means an LG dryer has detected a problem with its thermistor — the sensor that tracks drum temperature — so a factory reset clears a one-off glitch, but a code that keeps returning points to a failing sensor for a technician.
• LG Dryer tE2 tE2 is LG's temperature-sensor code that shows up in cold conditions — typically when outside air flows back through the exhaust during a steam cycle and cools the duct too fast — so it usually points to the vent and the weather rather than a broken sensor.
• LG Dryer HS HS means an LG dryer has detected a fault with its humidity sensor — the moisture sensor that decides when clothes are dry — and as a fallback the dryer runs a fixed cycle of about two and a half hours, so wiping the sensor contacts clean is the first thing to try.
• Whirlpool Dryer AF AF on a Whirlpool dryer is the airflow warning (F4E3 on some models): exhaust flow is restricted. Clean the lint screen and the full vent run — most cases need no parts at all.
• Whirlpool Dryer L2 L2 on a Whirlpool dryer means the 240-volt supply is weak or a leg is missing — the dryer spins but won't heat. Check the breaker handles, then call an electrician.
• Maytag Dryer AF AF on a Maytag dryer is the airflow warning: the exhaust is restricted, so the dryer runs hot and slow. Cleaning the lint screen and vent run fixes most cases without parts.
• Maytag Dryer L2 L2 on a Maytag dryer means the 240-volt supply is weak or one leg is missing — the dryer tumbles but never heats. Check the breaker handles, then call an electrician.
• Whirlpool Dryer F4 E1 F4 E1 is a heater system code — there may be a problem with the heater or the heater relays — so reset the breaker for one minute and call a technician if it returns.
• Whirlpool Dryer F4 E4 F4 E4 means low or no line voltage — a problem with your home power supply is keeping the heater from turning on — so check both dryer breakers and call an electrician if they are fine.
• Whirlpool Dryer hE hE on a Whirlpool compact dryer is a heating error — the temperature is too low or too high — and on vented models the likely cause is a clogged lint screen or restricted vent.

Different brand? The checks below apply broadly — but confirm any code against your model's manual before acting on it.

What to check first

1. Wash the lint screen with soap and water — a coated screen starves the heat system of airflow.
2. Clear the full vent run to the outside cap; restricted airflow makes a dryer run cold or overheat by turns.
3. On gas dryers, confirm the gas valve is open and the igniter glows during startup.
4. On electric dryers, confirm both breaker handles are on — a missing 240-volt leg tumbles the drum but kills the heat.
5. Watch a full cycle: a dryer that quits early has a thermostat or sensor fault, not a supply problem.

When to call a technician