Whirlpool Washer Error Codes — Complete List

Modern Whirlpool washers use paired F-and-E codes — F8 E1, F9 E1 — where the F number names the system and the E number narrows the fault, alongside plain-text codes like SD for suds. These are the codes we've verified for current front- and top-load models, each with a full structured diagnosis.

• F8 E1 (LO FL, LF) Your Whirlpool washer isn't detecting water coming in — usually a supply problem (taps, hoses, screens) rather than anything wrong inside the machine.
• F9 E1 (F9E1, Ld) The washer took too long to drain — check the drain hose setup and the pump filter; the 'hose pushed too far down the standpipe' mistake causes a surprising share of these.
• F5 E2 (F5E2) The washer tried to lock its door and couldn't — usually an obstruction or grime in the latch, sometimes a worn lock assembly that needs replacing.
• SD (Sd, SUDS) Too much foam — the washer paused its cycle to break down excess suds, which almost always traces back to detergent amount or type rather than a fault.
• F7 E1 (F7E1) The washer couldn't get its basket to the speed the cycle demanded — overloading and forgotten shipping bolts cause the embarrassing cases, a failing speed sensor the persistent ones.
• F3 E1 (F3E1) The washer can't tell how much water it's holding — its pressure sensor is feeding the control board readings it can't use, and beyond a reset that's a technician's diagnosis.
• F0 E2 (F0E2) The washer found more foam than it can rinse or drain through and paused to fight it — virtually always a detergent quantity or type problem rather than a fault.
• F5 E3 (F5E3) The washer tried to release its door lock and couldn't — usually cleared by draining fully and cutting power, with a worn lock assembly behind the stubborn cases.
• F5 E1 (F5E1) F5 E1 fires when the washer senses its door or lid switch open during a cycle that needs it shut — usually a door not latched firmly, an overstuffed drum holding it ajar, or a worn switch.
• F6 E2 (F6E2) F6 E2 means the washer's main control board lost its data link with the control-panel (user-interface) board — try one full power reset; if it persists, a connector or one of the two boards needs service.
• F8 E2 (F8E2) F8 E2 flags a fault in the washer's dispenser system — the drawer or cartridge that meters detergent and softener — usually a clogged or poorly seated dispenser rather than anything mechanical.
• F8 E3 (F8E3) F8 E3 is the overflow fault: the washer senses more water or foam in the tub than it should hold, often from over-sudsing or a slow drain, sometimes from an inlet valve that will not fully close.
• oL (OL) The oL code is Whirlpool's overloaded message — the washer has detected more laundry than it can handle for that cycle and pauses for you to remove or redistribute some items.
• rL (F34) rL appears when the washer detects laundry in the drum during the Clean Washer cycle, which is meant to run empty — remove everything and the cycle can continue.
• F0 E3 (F0E3) F0E3 on a Whirlpool top-load washer means the load is too heavy — the washer runs an overload recovery routine, and removing some items and reloading loosely is the fix.
• F0 E4 (F0E4) F0E4 means the washer senses the water is too hot — most often because the hot and cold fill hoses are swapped — so check the hose connections and then unplug the washer for 5 minutes to reset it.
• F0 E5 (F0E5) F0E5 means the load is off balance or too large, so the washer spun slowly or not at all — rearrange or reduce the load and run a Drain & Spin cycle.
• F0 E7 (F0E7) F0E7 means the washer detected clothing when you tried to run the Clean Washer cycle — empty the washer completely and start the cycle again.
• F0 E8 (F0E8) F0E8 means the washer detected too much water left in the tub — run a Drain and Spin cycle to clear it and call for service if the code keeps returning.
• F0 E9 (F0E9) F0E9 is an unbalanced-load code on Whirlpool top-load washers: redistribute the laundry evenly around the basket, avoid single bulky items, and restart.
• F2 E3 (F2E3) F2E3 indicates there may be an issue with the appliance control unit, the user interface, or the wiring between them; unplug the washer for 5 minutes to reset it and schedule service if it returns.
• F2 E4 (F2E4) F2E4 flags an issue with the washer's user interface or its wiring — reset the control by cutting power for 5 minutes, and book service if the alert comes back.
• F2 E5 (F2E5) A Whirlpool washer showing F2E5 has an issue with its user interface or the associated wiring; power it down for 5 minutes, and have a technician look at it if the code persists.
• F3 E2 (F3E2) F3E2 can mean the hot and cold inlet hoses are connected the wrong way round — confirm both faucets are open, swap the hoses if they are crossed, then reset the washer.
• F5 E4 (F5E4) F5E4 means the washer has not seen the door or lid open between cycles — open it, close it firmly, and restart the cycle.
• F6 E3 (F6E3) F6E3 is a washer reboot alert that points to the appliance control unit, user interface or their wiring; unplug for 5 minutes and arrange service if it comes back.
• F7 E2 (F7E2) On a Whirlpool top-load washer, F7E2 indicates an issue with the appliance control unit, user interface or associated wiring; try a 5-minute power reset and contact service if it does not clear.
• F7 E7 (F7E7) F7E7 on a Whirlpool top-load washer signals an issue with the appliance control unit, user interface, or associated wiring — reset power for 5 minutes and call service if the code persists.
• F8 E6 (F8E6) F8E6 has two possible meanings depending on model — the lid is open during the soak cycle, or no hot water was detected — so close the lid, then check that the fill hoses are not reversed and both faucets are open.
• F20 (F-20, FH) F20 — FH on some front-load models — means the washer has no water or an insufficient water supply: fully open both faucets, clean the inlet screens and straighten the fill hoses.
• F21 (F-21) F21 on a Whirlpool front-load washer indicates a drain problem — check the drain hose for kinks and clogs, then reset the control by unplugging for 5 minutes.
• F22 (F-22) F22 indicates a front door lock issue: close the door firmly, clear clothing or packing material from the latch, wipe detergent residue off the lock, and reduce an oversized load.
• HC HC means the hot and cold inlet hoses are reversed — turn off the water, swap the hoses, and run another cycle to confirm.
• LdL (dL) LdL — dL on some displays — means the lid is not locking: remove anything trapped under the lid and clean detergent build-up from around the lid lock.
• LdU (dU) LdU or dU means the lid cannot unlock because the washer detects something resting on it — take the laundry basket or other objects off the lid.
• lid (Lid) The word lid on a Whirlpool washer display means the lid was left open — close it to clear the message, and restart the cycle if the washer has already drained.
• OFb (ofb, Ofb, uL) OFb means the load is out of balance and the washer could not correct it automatically — open the lid, spread the laundry evenly around the washplate, and resume the cycle.
• PF PF means a power failure interrupted the wash cycle — touch and hold Start to resume, or press Power (or Cancel on some models) to clear the display and start again.
• dET (det) dET means the detergent dispenser cartridge is not detected — push the cartridge in properly and shut the drawer, or ignore the message if you are using single-load doses.
• Int Int means the cycle was paused or cancelled — the washer can take 20 to 30 minutes to stop and drain, after which pressing Pause or Cancel twice and Power once removes the code.
• LoC (LC, LOC) LoC or LC is not an error: Control Lock is switched on, and touching and holding the Control Lock button for 3 seconds turns it off.
• CL CL is a reminder to run the Clean Washer cycle, shown after 30 wash cycles; it clears when a cleaning cycle completes, or by itself after three more cycles.
• Err Err appears when you try to change the cycle while the washer is running, or try to start a cycle with the door open — close the door, or pause before changing settings.
• Fd Fd stands for Factory Default — the washer has been returned to its factory settings, and the message shows for about 3 seconds before the washer goes to standby.
• A09 A09 on a compact front-load washer is a water inlet problem — no or insufficient water — so open the faucets fully, clean the inlet screens and check the hoses for kinks or freezing.
• A10 A10 on a compact front-load washer is a drain problem — check the drain hose is not kinked, frozen or clogged, and is no more than 55 inches (1.4 m) above the floor.
• DEN (dEn) DEN means the compact washer is in Store Demo Mode — hold the Program and Options buttons together for 3 seconds to switch it off for normal use.
• F24 F24 on a compact washer means either too much laundry for a small-load program or too much inlet water — run Rinse & Spin for the first, or close the faucet and drain for the second.
• FdL (F29) FdL or F29 means the door cannot unlock — press firmly on the door at the lock and hold Power for 3 seconds; if water remains, clean the drain pump filter first.
• Fod (F18) Fod or F18 means excessive foam interrupted the program — run Rinse & Spin with Intensive Rinse, use less HE detergent, and check the drain pump filter is clean.
• E1 E1 on a Whirlpool stacked laundry center is a water inlet alarm: the correct water level was not reached within 20 minutes — open the faucets, clean the inlet screens and check the drain hose height.
• E2 E2 on a stacked laundry center is a draining alarm — the washer is still draining after 8 minutes — so clear the drain hose and make sure it is no more than about 39 inches (100 cm) from the floor.
• E3 E3 on a stacked laundry center is an unbalanced alarm — stop the spin, remove several items, spread the load evenly around the washplate and restart Spin.
• E4 E4 on a stacked laundry center is an open-lid alarm: the lid was opened during the spin cycle — close it and the washer resumes.
• EL EL on a stacked laundry center relates to the latch: make sure packing material or clothing is not blocking it, clean soap build-up from the door area, and cycle power for 30 seconds.

Don't see your code?

Whirlpool machines built before roughly 2010 use a different code system (F21, F28 and similar codes without the E). We cover the three Whirlpool still documents for front loaders — F20, F21 and F22; for any other code in that style, your model's manual is the right reference, because F#E# meanings don't transfer.

Also from Whirlpool: Whirlpool dishwasher error codes Whirlpool refrigerator error codes Whirlpool dryer error codes Whirlpool range error codes Whirlpool microwave error codes Whirlpool cooktop error codes Whirlpool oven error codes Whirlpool washer dryer combo error codes Whirlpool laundry tower error codes Whirlpool range hood error codes