Whirlpool Washer Error Codes — Complete List

Modern Whirlpool washers use paired F-and-E codes — F8 E1, F9 E1 — where the F number names the system and the E number narrows the fault, alongside plain-text codes like SD for suds. These are the codes we've verified for current front- and top-load models, each with a full structured diagnosis.

• F8 E1 (LO FL, LF) Your Whirlpool washer isn't detecting water coming in — usually a supply problem (taps, hoses, screens) rather than anything wrong inside the machine.
• F9 E1 (F9E1, Ld) The washer took too long to drain — check the drain hose setup and the pump filter; the 'hose pushed too far down the standpipe' mistake causes a surprising share of these.
• F5 E2 (F5E2) The washer tried to lock its door and couldn't — usually an obstruction or grime in the latch, sometimes a worn lock assembly that needs replacing.
• SD (Sd, SUDS) Too much foam — the washer paused its cycle to break down excess suds, which almost always traces back to detergent amount or type rather than a fault.
• F7 E1 (F7E1) The washer couldn't get its basket to the speed the cycle demanded — overloading and forgotten shipping bolts cause the embarrassing cases, a failing speed sensor the persistent ones.
• F3 E1 (F3E1) The washer can't tell how much water it's holding — its pressure sensor is feeding the control board readings it can't use, and beyond a reset that's a technician's diagnosis.
• F0 E2 (F0E2) The washer found more foam than it can rinse or drain through and paused to fight it — virtually always a detergent quantity or type problem rather than a fault.
• F1 E1 (F1E1) The main control board flagged a fault inside itself — one long reset is worth trying, but a returning F1 E1 means professional diagnosis, not guesswork.
• F5 E3 (F5E3) The washer tried to release its door lock and couldn't — usually cleared by draining fully and cutting power, with a worn lock assembly behind the stubborn cases.
• F2 E1 (F2E1) Whirlpool reads F2 E1 when a button on the control panel stays active far longer than a real press — typically a physically stuck or sticky key, occasionally a touchpad that has begun to fail.
• F5 E1 (F5E1) F5 E1 fires when the washer senses its door or lid switch open during a cycle that needs it shut — usually a door not latched firmly, an overstuffed drum holding it ajar, or a worn switch.
• F6 E1 (F6E1) F6 E1 means the washer's main control board and its motor-control electronics stopped talking to each other — worth one power reset, but a code that returns is an internal wiring or board fault for a technician.
• F6 E2 (F6E2) F6 E2 means the washer's main control board lost its data link with the control-panel (user-interface) board — try one full power reset; if it persists, a connector or one of the two boards needs service.
• F7 E5 (F7E5) On Whirlpool top-load washers F7 E5 means the control cannot sense the basket turning correctly — most often the shifter actuator that engages the drive and reports rotation has failed.
• F8 E2 (F8E2) F8 E2 flags a fault in the washer's dispenser system — the drawer or cartridge that meters detergent and softener — usually a clogged or poorly seated dispenser rather than anything mechanical.
• F8 E3 (F8E3) F8 E3 is the overflow fault: the washer senses more water or foam in the tub than it should hold, often from over-sudsing or a slow drain, sometimes from an inlet valve that will not fully close.
• oL (OL) The oL code is Whirlpool's overloaded message — the washer has detected more laundry than it can handle for that cycle and pauses for you to remove or redistribute some items.
• uL (UL) uL is Whirlpool's unbalanced-load warning during the spin: the laundry has shifted to one side, so the washer slows or stops and adds water to even it out before it can spin up.
• rL (F34) rL appears when the washer detects laundry in the drum during the Clean Washer cycle, which is meant to run empty — remove everything and the cycle can continue.

Don't see your code?

Whirlpool machines built before roughly 2010 use a completely different code system (F21, F28 and similar two-part codes without the E). If your display shows that style, your model's manual is the right reference — the meanings don't transfer.

Also from Whirlpool: Whirlpool dishwasher error codes