Whirlpool Error Codes

Pick the code your Whirlpool appliance is showing. Each page explains what the code means, the most likely causes ranked by probability, and which fixes are safe to try before calling a technician.

Whirlpool Washer Codes

• F8 E1 Your Whirlpool washer isn't detecting water coming in — usually a supply problem (taps, hoses, screens) rather than anything wrong inside the machine.
• F9 E1 The washer took too long to drain — check the drain hose setup and the pump filter; the 'hose pushed too far down the standpipe' mistake causes a surprising share of these.
• F5 E2 The washer tried to lock its door and couldn't — usually an obstruction or grime in the latch, sometimes a worn lock assembly that needs replacing.
• SD Too much foam — the washer paused its cycle to break down excess suds, which almost always traces back to detergent amount or type rather than a fault.
• F7 E1 The washer couldn't get its basket to the speed the cycle demanded — overloading and forgotten shipping bolts cause the embarrassing cases, a failing speed sensor the persistent ones.
• F3 E1 The washer can't tell how much water it's holding — its pressure sensor is feeding the control board readings it can't use, and beyond a reset that's a technician's diagnosis.
• F0 E2 The washer found more foam than it can rinse or drain through and paused to fight it — virtually always a detergent quantity or type problem rather than a fault.
• F5 E3 The washer tried to release its door lock and couldn't — usually cleared by draining fully and cutting power, with a worn lock assembly behind the stubborn cases.
• F5 E1 F5 E1 fires when the washer senses its door or lid switch open during a cycle that needs it shut — usually a door not latched firmly, an overstuffed drum holding it ajar, or a worn switch.
• F6 E2 F6 E2 means the washer's main control board lost its data link with the control-panel (user-interface) board — try one full power reset; if it persists, a connector or one of the two boards needs service.
• F8 E2 F8 E2 flags a fault in the washer's dispenser system — the drawer or cartridge that meters detergent and softener — usually a clogged or poorly seated dispenser rather than anything mechanical.
• F8 E3 F8 E3 is the overflow fault: the washer senses more water or foam in the tub than it should hold, often from over-sudsing or a slow drain, sometimes from an inlet valve that will not fully close.
• oL The oL code is Whirlpool's overloaded message — the washer has detected more laundry than it can handle for that cycle and pauses for you to remove or redistribute some items.
• rL rL appears when the washer detects laundry in the drum during the Clean Washer cycle, which is meant to run empty — remove everything and the cycle can continue.
• F0 E3 F0E3 on a Whirlpool top-load washer means the load is too heavy — the washer runs an overload recovery routine, and removing some items and reloading loosely is the fix.
• F0 E4 F0E4 means the washer senses the water is too hot — most often because the hot and cold fill hoses are swapped — so check the hose connections and then unplug the washer for 5 minutes to reset it.
• F0 E5 F0E5 means the load is off balance or too large, so the washer spun slowly or not at all — rearrange or reduce the load and run a Drain & Spin cycle.
• F0 E7 F0E7 means the washer detected clothing when you tried to run the Clean Washer cycle — empty the washer completely and start the cycle again.
• F0 E8 F0E8 means the washer detected too much water left in the tub — run a Drain and Spin cycle to clear it and call for service if the code keeps returning.
• F0 E9 F0E9 is an unbalanced-load code on Whirlpool top-load washers: redistribute the laundry evenly around the basket, avoid single bulky items, and restart.
• F2 E3 F2E3 indicates there may be an issue with the appliance control unit, the user interface, or the wiring between them; unplug the washer for 5 minutes to reset it and schedule service if it returns.
• F2 E4 F2E4 flags an issue with the washer's user interface or its wiring — reset the control by cutting power for 5 minutes, and book service if the alert comes back.
• F2 E5 A Whirlpool washer showing F2E5 has an issue with its user interface or the associated wiring; power it down for 5 minutes, and have a technician look at it if the code persists.
• F3 E2 F3E2 can mean the hot and cold inlet hoses are connected the wrong way round — confirm both faucets are open, swap the hoses if they are crossed, then reset the washer.
• F5 E4 F5E4 means the washer has not seen the door or lid open between cycles — open it, close it firmly, and restart the cycle.
• F6 E3 F6E3 is a washer reboot alert that points to the appliance control unit, user interface or their wiring; unplug for 5 minutes and arrange service if it comes back.
• F7 E2 On a Whirlpool top-load washer, F7E2 indicates an issue with the appliance control unit, user interface or associated wiring; try a 5-minute power reset and contact service if it does not clear.
• F7 E7 F7E7 on a Whirlpool top-load washer signals an issue with the appliance control unit, user interface, or associated wiring — reset power for 5 minutes and call service if the code persists.
• F8 E6 F8E6 has two possible meanings depending on model — the lid is open during the soak cycle, or no hot water was detected — so close the lid, then check that the fill hoses are not reversed and both faucets are open.
• F20 F20 — FH on some front-load models — means the washer has no water or an insufficient water supply: fully open both faucets, clean the inlet screens and straighten the fill hoses.
• F21 F21 on a Whirlpool front-load washer indicates a drain problem — check the drain hose for kinks and clogs, then reset the control by unplugging for 5 minutes.
• F22 F22 indicates a front door lock issue: close the door firmly, clear clothing or packing material from the latch, wipe detergent residue off the lock, and reduce an oversized load.
• HC HC means the hot and cold inlet hoses are reversed — turn off the water, swap the hoses, and run another cycle to confirm.
• LdL LdL — dL on some displays — means the lid is not locking: remove anything trapped under the lid and clean detergent build-up from around the lid lock.
• LdU LdU or dU means the lid cannot unlock because the washer detects something resting on it — take the laundry basket or other objects off the lid.
• lid The word lid on a Whirlpool washer display means the lid was left open — close it to clear the message, and restart the cycle if the washer has already drained.
• OFb OFb means the load is out of balance and the washer could not correct it automatically — open the lid, spread the laundry evenly around the washplate, and resume the cycle.
• PF PF means a power failure interrupted the wash cycle — touch and hold Start to resume, or press Power (or Cancel on some models) to clear the display and start again.
• dET dET means the detergent dispenser cartridge is not detected — push the cartridge in properly and shut the drawer, or ignore the message if you are using single-load doses.
• Int Int means the cycle was paused or cancelled — the washer can take 20 to 30 minutes to stop and drain, after which pressing Pause or Cancel twice and Power once removes the code.
• LoC LoC or LC is not an error: Control Lock is switched on, and touching and holding the Control Lock button for 3 seconds turns it off.
• CL CL is a reminder to run the Clean Washer cycle, shown after 30 wash cycles; it clears when a cleaning cycle completes, or by itself after three more cycles.
• Err Err appears when you try to change the cycle while the washer is running, or try to start a cycle with the door open — close the door, or pause before changing settings.
• Fd Fd stands for Factory Default — the washer has been returned to its factory settings, and the message shows for about 3 seconds before the washer goes to standby.
• A09 A09 on a compact front-load washer is a water inlet problem — no or insufficient water — so open the faucets fully, clean the inlet screens and check the hoses for kinks or freezing.
• A10 A10 on a compact front-load washer is a drain problem — check the drain hose is not kinked, frozen or clogged, and is no more than 55 inches (1.4 m) above the floor.
• DEN DEN means the compact washer is in Store Demo Mode — hold the Program and Options buttons together for 3 seconds to switch it off for normal use.
• F24 F24 on a compact washer means either too much laundry for a small-load program or too much inlet water — run Rinse & Spin for the first, or close the faucet and drain for the second.
• FdL FdL or F29 means the door cannot unlock — press firmly on the door at the lock and hold Power for 3 seconds; if water remains, clean the drain pump filter first.
• Fod Fod or F18 means excessive foam interrupted the program — run Rinse & Spin with Intensive Rinse, use less HE detergent, and check the drain pump filter is clean.
• E1 E1 on a Whirlpool stacked laundry center is a water inlet alarm: the correct water level was not reached within 20 minutes — open the faucets, clean the inlet screens and check the drain hose height.
• E2 E2 on a stacked laundry center is a draining alarm — the washer is still draining after 8 minutes — so clear the drain hose and make sure it is no more than about 39 inches (100 cm) from the floor.
• E3 E3 on a stacked laundry center is an unbalanced alarm — stop the spin, remove several items, spread the load evenly around the washplate and restart Spin.
• E4 E4 on a stacked laundry center is an open-lid alarm: the lid was opened during the spin cycle — close it and the washer resumes.
• EL EL on a stacked laundry center relates to the latch: make sure packing material or clothing is not blocking it, clean soap build-up from the door area, and cycle power for 30 seconds.

Whirlpool Dishwasher Codes

• 1-1 The control board detected one of its own relays stuck on — a long power-off clears the false alarms, while a genuinely welded relay means board-level repair.
• 6-4 The overfill float switch — the machine's anti-flood backstop — is reading open, usually because the float is stuck or obstructed, occasionally because the inlet valve is dribbling water in when it should be shut.
• 1-2 F1E2 means the dishwasher's main control has logged a communication error — disconnect power for 30 seconds to reset it, and book service if the code returns.
• 2-1 F2E1 points to a stuck key or a console error on the control panel; cycling power for 30 seconds is the fix to try, and a repeat means the console needs professional attention.
• 2-2 A Whirlpool dishwasher showing F2E2 has a main control communication error, which a 30-second power disconnect sometimes clears and a technician must diagnose if it does not.
• 3-2 F3E2 indicates a problem with the thermistor or OWI sensor — the part that reads water temperature and clarity — so reset power for 30 seconds and have it serviced if the code persists.
• 4-2 F4E2 tells you the control has found a problem in the heating system; try a 30-second power reset, and leave any repair of the heater circuit to a technician.
• 4-3 F4E3 is Whirlpool's heating error code for dishwashers: reset the control by cutting power for 30 seconds, and schedule service if the error comes back.
• 6-1 F6E1 flags a user interface or main control error, so cycle power for 30 seconds and call for service if the code is still there afterwards.
• 6-3 F6E3 means the dishwasher has detected excessive suds — scoop out the foam, run an empty cycle with no detergent, and stop using anything but automatic-dishwasher detergent.
• 7-2 F7E2 reports a wash motor error; power-cycle the dishwasher for 30 seconds and schedule service if the code returns, because motor diagnosis is not a DIY job.
• 8-2 F8E2 is a fill valve electric error: check for leaks around the water inlet valve connection, power-cycle the dishwasher, and schedule service if the code returns.
• 8-4 F8E4 appears when the float switch in the drip tray under the tub is triggered — check the water connection and float switch on a new install, empty the tray, and press Cancel twice to clear it.
• 8-5 F8E5 means the fill valve is stuck open and water may keep entering the tub — turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, press Cancel once, keep the door shut, and arrange service.
• 9-1 F9E1 means the dishwasher is taking too long to drain — clean the filter, check the drain hose for kinks or clogs, and clear the sink disposer or air gap before restarting.
• 9-2 F9E2 is a drain motor error: rule out a blocked disposer or kinked drain hose, cycle power, and schedule service if the code returns.
• 10-4 FAE4, also shown as F10E4, is a diverter valve error; disconnect power for 30 seconds to reset the control and contact service if the code stays.
• 10-5 FAE5 or F10E5 signals a diverter leak — look for water under the dishwasher, make sure the water connections are secure, press Cancel twice, and schedule service if it comes back.
• H2O H2O on a Whirlpool dishwasher means it is not detecting water — make sure the supply valve is on and the supply hose is not kinked, then press Start so it can try to fill again.
• Clean Light Flashing A flashing Clean light on a Whirlpool dishwasher is usually an error code: count the first set of flashes for the F number, wait for the short pause, then count the second set for the E number.
• Sanitize Light Flashing A flashing Sanitize light means the dishwasher did not reach the temperature needed for sanitization, so the dishes were not sanitized — check your hot water reaches at least 120°F and avoid opening the door mid-cycle.
• Start/Resume Light Flashing A flashing Start/Resume light — or all cycle and option lights flashing — means the cycle or start-up was interrupted: press Start/Resume and push the door firmly closed within 3 seconds.
• Control Lock Light If the lock light flashes three times when you press a button, Control Lock is on — press and hold the Control Lock button for 3 seconds to unlock.
• Rinse Only Light Flashing A rapidly flashing Rinse Only light on a portable dishwasher means multiple keys are stuck — press each key one at a time to release them, or press Cancel.
• Front Status Light The front status light shows cycle progress — blue for washing, red for drying, white when complete — and a blinking light means the cycle has paused.

Whirlpool Refrigerator Codes

• PO PO on a Whirlpool refrigerator means a power outage occurred and the freezer reached about 18°F or warmer — a food-safety notice, not a component fault. Check contents, clear the code, and only investigate if it keeps returning.
• Cooling Off COOLING OFF means the cooling function has been switched off, so neither the refrigerator nor the freezer will cool — on many models, pressing and holding LOCK and MEASURED FILL together for 3 seconds turns it back on.
• Temperature Alarm The temperature alarm means the refrigerator rose above 48°F (9°C) or the freezer above 15°F (-9°C) for more than an hour — press Alarm to acknowledge it and check why the compartment warmed up.
• Door Ajar The Door Ajar alarm sounds when a refrigerator door or freezer drawer has been open for 2 to 5 minutes — close all doors to reset it, and check for items or leveling problems if it keeps sounding.
• CL CL or LO on a Whirlpool beverage center indicates the internal temperature is too low — check the door is closed, allow time after restocking or a power cut, and reset power for one minute.
• Sabbath Sabbath on the display means Sabbath mode is on, so the interior lights, control panel and dispenser are inactive — press and hold Mode for 3 seconds to cycle back to normal use.
• Replace Filter Replace Filter means the water filter has passed its rated volume or been in for 6 months — install a new filter, then reset the status light, which does not reset by itself.
• Descale Needed Descale Needed is a maintenance message for the nugget ice maker — run the roughly 30-minute descaling process, started by holding the Descale Nugget Ice button for 10 seconds.

Whirlpool Dryer Codes

• PF PF on a Whirlpool dryer is a power-failure notice: the dryer lost power mid-cycle and stopped. Nothing is broken — press START to clear it and resume the load.
• AF AF on a Whirlpool dryer is the airflow warning (F4E3 on some models): exhaust flow is restricted. Clean the lint screen and the full vent run — most cases need no parts at all.
• L2 L2 on a Whirlpool dryer means the 240-volt supply is weak or a leg is missing — the dryer spins but won't heat. Check the breaker handles, then call an electrician.
• F1 E3 F1E3, F1E4 and F1E5 indicate there may be an issue with the dryer's control unit or its wiring — try starting a cycle again, then remove power to reset it, and call service if the code returns.
• F2 E1 F2E1 is Whirlpool's keypad code for dryers and F2E2 its keypad-or-control code; reset power at the breaker for one minute, run a timed dry cycle, and call service if either returns.
• F2 E4 F2E4 and F2E5 indicate there may be an issue with the dryer's user interface or its wiring; restart a cycle or reset power for a minute, and call service if the code persists.
• F3 E1 F3 E1 relates to the dryer's exhaust thermistor, the sensor that reads outgoing air temperature — reset power for one minute and run a timed dry, and call a technician if it returns.
• F3 E2 F3E2 and F3E5 appear when five consecutive loads are dried without the moisture sensor registering anything — press Power to clear it, level the dryer, and avoid very small loads.
• F3 E3 F3 E3 relates to the inlet thermistor, which reads the temperature of air entering the drum; cycle power for a minute, test with a timed dry, and call service if the code returns.
• F4 E1 F4 E1 is a heater system code — there may be a problem with the heater or the heater relays — so reset the breaker for one minute and call a technician if it returns.
• F4 E4 F4 E4 means low or no line voltage — a problem with your home power supply is keeping the heater from turning on — so check both dryer breakers and call an electrician if they are fine.
• F6 E1 F6 E1 is a communication error: there may be a problem with the main control board, the user interface (touchpad), or the wiring between them — reset power for one minute and call service if it persists.
• F7 E1 F7 E1 is a motor system code — there may be a problem with the motor, the control, or the wiring — so reset the breaker for a minute and call service if the code returns.
• ERR ERR means the dryer door has not been completely closed and latched — push the door until the latch (or both latches) engages, and the dryer will run.
• Loc Loc or Lc means Control Lock is enabled and the dryer will not start — press and hold the Control Lock key for 3 seconds while the display counts down 3-2-1.
• LF LF on a Whirlpool HybridCare dryer means the lint filter has been removed — put the HybridCare filter back in and make sure its handle is properly seated.
• dC dC on a Whirlpool compact dryer typically comes from a door circuit failure, and Whirlpool says most of the causes will require service.
• do do on a Whirlpool compact dryer typically appears when the dryer is started with the door open or ajar — close and latch the door completely.
• hE hE on a Whirlpool compact dryer is a heating error — the temperature is too low or too high — and on vented models the likely cause is a clogged lint screen or restricted vent.
• tS tS on a Whirlpool compact dryer shows a problem with the thermistor, meaning temperatures are not reading correctly; on vented models check the lint screen and vent first.
• FE FE on a Whirlpool compact dryer is a power source problem — verify the dryer is connected to a proper 3- or 4-prong grounded outlet, and call service if the connection is correct.
• F05 For F05 to F09 on a Whirlpool compact heat pump dryer, turn it off and unplug it, open the door and remove the laundry so heat can dissipate, then try again after about an hour.

Whirlpool Range Codes

• F3 E0 F3 E0 on a Whirlpool-family range flags the oven temperature sensing circuit — Whirlpool's own description names the temperature sensor, the control, or the associated wiring. A one-minute breaker reset is the official first step.
• F3 E1 F3 E1 is the paired partner of F3 E0 on Whirlpool-family ranges: the same oven temperature sensing circuit, control, or wiring suspects, per Whirlpool's own page. A one-minute breaker reset is the official first step.
• F1 E0 F1 E0 on a Whirlpool-family range points at the oven control — Whirlpool's own page names the oven control or the associated wiring. A one-minute breaker reset is the official first step.
• F2 E0 F2 E0 on a Whirlpool-family range points at the user interface, the keypad, the control, or the wiring — the input side of the oven. Clean keys and a one-minute breaker reset first.
• F0 E0 F0 E0 appears when the electronic oven control cannot recognise what type of problem has occurred — turn the breaker off for one minute to reset it, and call for service if the code comes back.
• F1 E1 F1 E1 — like F1 E2 and F1 E5 — means there may be a problem with the oven control or its wiring; reset the range at the breaker for one minute and book service if the code repeats.
• F1 E7 F1 E7 and F1 E9 indicate a possible fault in the appliance control board or its wiring — power the range down at the breaker for a minute, and arrange service if either code returns.
• F2 E1 F2 E1 can be triggered by cooktop grates that are not seated properly — make sure they sit level, swap any that wobble, then reset power; otherwise it points to the keypad or control.
• F2 E2 F2 E2, F2 E3, F2 E4, F2 E5 and F2 E6 all mean there may be a problem with the user interface or keypad, the control, or their wiring — reset the range at the breaker and call for service if the code stays.
• F3 E2 F3 E2 means there may be a problem with the oven temperature sensor, the warming drawer sensor on models that have one, or the wiring — reset power for a minute and book service if it returns.
• F3 E3 F3 E3 indicates a possible problem with the oven temperature sensor or its wiring; try a one-minute breaker reset, then call for service if the code persists.
• F3 E4 F3 E4 relates to the meat probe — check that the probe is securely inserted in its receptacle inside the oven, then reset power if the code remains.
• F5 E0 F5 E0 and F5 E7 point to the oven door latch assembly, the door switch or their wiring — close the door fully, reset the breaker for a minute, and call service if the code remains.
• F5 E1 F5 E1, F5 E2 and F5 E3 indicate a possible fault with the main oven door latch assembly, the door switch, or the wiring; reset power for one minute and schedule service if the code is still there.
• F5 E5 F5 E5 means the oven had not reached self-clean temperature after 30 minutes, which Whirlpool links to the door hinges or door gasket — check the door closes squarely and the gasket is intact.
• F6 E0 F6 E0 suggests a problem with the oven control, the Appliance Manager board, or the wiring between them — reset at the breaker for one minute and call service if it returns.
• F6 E1 F6 E1 and F6 E3 point to the Appliance Manager board or its wiring; Whirlpool notes several things can cause it, so cycle the breaker for one minute and schedule service if it repeats.
• F6 E4 F6 E4 indicates a possible fault with the oven Appliance Manager or oven control, or their wiring; reset power for a minute, and call service if the code is still shown.
• F6 E5 F6 E5 and F6 EA mean there may be a problem with the range's user interface or its wiring — reset at the breaker for one minute and get service if the code persists.
• F7 E0 F7 E0 points to the oven door latch assembly or its wiring: shut the door fully, reset the breaker for a minute, and call service if the code or a locked door remains.
• F7 E1 F7 E1 suggests a problem with the oven door switch or its wiring; after a one-minute power reset, Whirlpool notes you may need a qualified technician.
• F7 E5 F7 E5 and F7 E6 indicate a possible fault with the cooling fan or its wiring — reset the breaker for one minute, and arrange service if either code returns.
• F8 E0 F8 E0 means the cooling fan speed is too low, which may come from restricted airflow, the cooling fan itself, or its wiring — clear the vents, reset the breaker, and call service if it comes back.
• F8 E2 F8 E2 means the cooling fan speed is too high, pointing to the oven cooling fan or its wiring; reset power for a minute and call for service if the code persists.
• F8 EA F8 EA indicates a possible problem with the user interface or its wiring; switch the breaker off for one minute and call for service if the code returns.
• FC E1 FC E1, FC E2 and FC E3 mean the range could not connect to your Wi-Fi router — restart the router and the range, and improve the signal where the range sits.
• FC E4 FC E4 and FC E5 point to the range's Wi-Fi antenna or its wiring; power the range off at the breaker for a minute and contact Whirlpool connected-appliance support if the code stays.
• FC E6 FC E6 and FC E9 indicate a possible fault in the Wi-Fi power module or its wiring — reset at the breaker for one minute and seek service if the code is still present.
• FC E7 FC E7 means the range did not connect to your router — reset the range at the breaker, then restart your wireless router to restore the link to the internet.
• FC E8 FC E8 is a registration error that appears when the SAID number, appliance type or model number was entered incorrectly during connected setup — re-enter them carefully.
• FE E6 FEE6 indicates a possible problem with the main cavity bake element or its wiring — reset the breaker for a minute, and leave element testing and replacement to a technician.
• FE E7 FEE7 indicates a possible fault with the main cavity broil element or its wiring; reset power for a minute and call a technician if the code returns.
• F1 A plain F1 or F2 on a Whirlpool range means there may be a problem with the oven temperature sensor, the control, or the wiring; reset the breaker for one minute and call service if it returns.
• F3 A plain F3 or F6 on a Whirlpool range indicates a possible problem with the oven control or its wiring — reset at the breaker for one minute and call for service if the code remains.
• F5 A plain F5 on a Whirlpool range points to the oven door latch assembly, the door latch switches, or their wiring — reset the breaker for a minute and never force a locked door.
• F8 A plain F8 on a Whirlpool range concerns the meat probe: make sure it is securely inserted in its receptacle, or remove it if unused, then reset power.
• F01 F01 and F02 point to the oven temperature sensor, the control, or the wiring between them; turn the breaker off for one minute and call service if the code returns.
• F03 F03, F04 and F06 indicate a possible fault in the electronic oven control or its wiring — reset the breaker for a minute, and schedule service if the code is displayed again.
• F05 F05 points to the door latch assembly, the door switch, or the wiring; close the door fully, reset power for a minute, and call service if it does not clear.
• F1-1 F1-1, F1-2, F1-3, F1-H and F1-L all indicate a possible problem with the oven temperature sensor, the control, or the wiring; reset the breaker for one minute and call service if the code repeats.
• F1-5 F1-5 and F1-8 suggest a problem with the oven control, the user interface or keypad, or their wiring — reset power for one minute and book service if it comes back.
• F1-7 F1-7, F1-9 and F1-E indicate a possible oven control or wiring fault; switch the breaker off for one minute and call for service if the code persists.
• F1-A F1-A and F1-C point to the oven door latch, the door lock switch, or their wiring — reset power for one minute and do not force the door.
• F3-1 F3-1 indicates a possible problem with the oven temperature sensor, the control, or the wiring; reset the breaker for a minute, then call service if it shows again.
• F9-1 F9-1, F9-2 and F9-3 point to the oven door latch, the door lock switch, or their wiring; reset the breaker for one minute and call service if the code or a locked door remains.
• 1c1c 1c1c and 1c2c indicate a possible problem with the user interface or keypad, or its wiring — clean and dry the panel, reset the breaker for a minute, and call service if the code returns.
• 1c31 The 1c3, 1c4, 1c6, 1c7 and 1c8 codes on a Whirlpool range all indicate a possible oven control or wiring fault; reset at the breaker for one minute and call service if the code persists.
• 1d11 1d11, 1d12, 1d21 and 1d22 point to the oven temperature sensor, the control, or the wiring — reset the breaker for one minute and call service if the code returns.
• 3d11 3d11, 3d12, 3d21 and 3d22 indicate a possible oven temperature sensor, control or wiring problem; reset power at the breaker for a minute and call service if it persists.
• 3d31 3d31, 3d32 and 3d41 concern the meat probe — verify the probe is securely inserted in its receptacle, and reset power if the code does not clear.
• 3d51 3d51 indicates a possible oven control or wiring problem; reset at the breaker for one minute and schedule service if it returns.
• 4d11 4d11, 4d12, 4d51 and 4d52 point to the oven door latch assembly, the door switch, or their wiring; close the door, reset power for a minute, and call service if it persists.
• 4d21 4d21 and 4d22 mean the cooling fan speed is too low — look for blocked airflow, reset the breaker for one minute, and call service if the code repeats.
• 4d31 4d31 and 4d32 indicate a possible oven control or wiring problem — reset power at the breaker for a minute, then call service if needed.
• 4d41 4d41 and 4d42 mean the cooling fan speed is too high; reset at the breaker for a minute, and have a technician check the fan if the code returns.
• 9d11 Every 9d code on a Whirlpool range, from 9d11 to 9d62, points to the oven door latch assembly, the door switch, or their wiring — reset the breaker for a minute and do not force the door.
• C81 C81, C82 or C83 means a surface cooking area overheated and the automatic shutoff activated — wait 5 minutes for it to cool, then turn the cooktop back on.
• H An H in the heat-setting window means a surface cooking area is still too hot to touch, even after it has been switched off — let the cooktop cool, and reset power only if the H stays or flashes.
• ES ES — which can look like E5 — means Energy Save mode is active and the display sleeps when the range is idle; press and hold CLOCK for 10 seconds to switch it off.
• Sab Sab, Sabbath or 5Ab means Sabbath Mode is enabled, so only Bake operates and tones, timers and most keys are disabled — cancel it using the steps in your owner's manual.
• LOC LOC, Lock or Locked means the control lock is on, which disables the keypad and locks the oven door — touch and hold START/ENTER for 5 seconds to unlock.
• Lo Lo or Pre after you start the oven is normal — it means the oven is below 170°F or still preheating, and a tone sounds when the set temperature is reached.
• PUSH PUSH or PSH is a prompt, not a fault: you selected an oven function but have not pressed Start, so press Start to begin.
• Probe Probe or Insert Probe means the control is looking for the meat probe — plug the probe fully into its jack and insert the tip into the thickest part of the food.
• Demo Mode Demo Mode is a showroom setting in which the controls work but the oven will not heat — turn it off through the Settings/Clock or Tools menu as described for your model.
• Call Service Call Service or Press Cancel to Reset means the range has detected a fault — press Cancel, and if Call Service comes back, reset power at the breaker and try a bake cycle.
• Power Loss A flashing clock, 12:00, Time or POWER LOSS means power to the range was interrupted — press Cancel to clear the display and set the time of day.

Whirlpool Microwave Codes

• E03 E03 — or a plain F2 — means the keypad reported a problem to the control board; reset power for one minute and call for service if it comes back.
• SE SE means there is a problem with the keypad (user interface) or its wiring — clean and dry the panel, reset power for a minute, and call service if SE remains.
• E11 E11 and E12 point to the microwave's gas sensor — the sensor used for automatic cooking — or its wiring; reset power for a minute, and expect to need a technician if it returns.
• E13 E13 means the oven did not pre-heat correctly, with a possible problem in the appliance control board or its wiring; reset power for a minute and call service if it repeats.
• E21 E21 means the thermal sensor circuit reported open and E22 that it reported a short — reset power for a minute, and have a technician check the sensor, control board or wiring if it returns.
• E23 E23 means the oven did not reach preheat temperature within 30 minutes, pointing to the heater, the appliance control board, or the wiring; reset power and call service if it repeats.
• E24 E24 means the oven reached an overheat condition of 500°F (260°C) — let it cool, reset power for a minute, and stop using it and call service if the code returns.
• E61 E61 means the oven sensor circuit reported open, and E62 or E63 that it reported shorted; reset power for a minute and call a technician if the code returns.
• F1E1 F1E1 — and a plain F6 — mean the oven could not execute the function, with a possible problem in the relay control board or its wiring; reset power and call service if it repeats.
• F1E4 F1E4, F6E0 and a plain F7 mean the oven could not execute the function, with a possible appliance control board or wiring problem — reset power for a minute and call service if needed.
• F2E1 F2E1, F2Q1 and F9Q1 indicate a possible problem with the user interface — the keypad or touchpad — or its wiring; reset power and call service if the code persists.
• F2H1 F2H1 and F2H2 point to the vent fan and light switch, located on the lower left front side panel, or its wiring; reset power and call service if the code returns.
• F3C F3C and F4E1 point to the cavity temperature thermistor or its wiring; reset power for a minute, and have a technician check it if the code returns.
• F3H F3H, F3H1 and F4E4 point to the humidity sensor or humidity thermistor used for sensor cooking, or its wiring — reset power and call service if the code repeats.
• F3T1 F3T1 points to the user interface thermistor — a temperature sensor at the control panel — or its wiring; reset power and call service if it returns.
• F3T2 F3T2 points to the convection thermistor or its wiring; reset power for a minute and call service if the code comes back.
• F3T3 F3T3 points to the hood temperature thermistor — the sensor that watches heat rising from the cooktop — or its wiring; reset power and call service if it repeats.
• F3T4 F3T4 points to the magnetron temperature thermistor or its wiring; reset power for a minute, and leave any repair strictly to a technician.
• F4E9 F4E9 points to the Smart Pop control — the popcorn-sensing feature — or its wiring; reset power for one minute and call for service if it returns.
• AccuPop Fail AccuPop Fail means the oven could not execute the popcorn-sensing function, possibly because of a problem with the AccuPop sensor; reset power for a minute and retry.
• F7 E9 F7 E9 is a prompt to check the upper vent door: if trim, cabinetry or anything else stops it opening and closing freely, the microwave could overheat.
• F8E5 F8E5 means the oven could not execute the function, with a possible problem in the exhaust air temperature sensor or its wiring; reset power and call service if it repeats.
• F9 A plain F9 means the oven could not execute the function, with a possible problem in the appliance control board, the relay control board, or the wiring; reset power and call service.
• FC E1 FC E1, FC E2 and FC E3 mean the microwave could not connect to your Wi-Fi router — restart the router and the microwave and check signal strength where it is installed.
• FC E7 FC E7 means the microwave did not connect to your router and its Wi-Fi module has no link to the internet — reset the microwave, then reset your wireless router.
• FC E8 FC E8, shown as Registration Error, means app registration failed — usually a mistyped SAID number or the wrong appliance type or model selected.
• Door DOOR or OPEN/CLOSE DOOR appears when the door has been closed for 5 minutes or more without the microwave being started — open and close the door, then start the cycle.
• PF A flashing colon, PF or 0:00 means there has been a power failure or the clock has been turned off — press Cancel to stop the blinking and reset the clock.
• LOC LOC, L or a padlock icon means Control Lock is enabled — depending on model, press and hold Cancel for 3 seconds or Start for 5 seconds to unlock.
• dOn dOn or a "d" icon means demo mode is on, so the microwave will not heat — open the door, hold number 3 for 5 seconds, then press Start within 5 seconds to turn it off.
• EA EA and DI are not faults: they show whether the 2-step door-opening function is Enabled or Disabled, and holding STOP/UNLOCK for 3 seconds lets you change it.
• Err7 Err7 on a Whirlpool built-in microwave indicates a possible problem with the user interface or keypad, the control, or the wiring — reset the breaker for one minute and call service if it returns.
• Sensor Error ERROR during sensor cooking means the sensor is not detecting humidity from the food — check the food and how it is covered, then start the program again.

Whirlpool Cooktop Codes

• F0 F0 or F00 means an object, liquid or soil is putting pressure on the touch control panel — remove anything on the control area, wipe it clean and dry, and reset power if needed.
• F1E0 F1E0 indicates one or more keys are permanently pressed — turn the controls off, clear and thoroughly clean the touch panel, and reset power; if it persists the cooktop control may be at fault.
• F2 E1 F2 E1 points to the keys: food, water or build-up may be hindering the controls, so clean the area with soap and water, dry it with a microfiber towel, and reset power.
• F1E1 F1E1 means communication has been lost between the user interface (keypad) and the appliance manager board; reset power for a minute and call service if it returns.
• F1E7 F1E7 and F1E9 indicate a possible problem with the cooktop control or its wiring; reset at the breaker for one minute and call service if the code returns.
• F6E0 F6E0 and F6E4 mean communication was lost between the keypad and the user interface control; reset power for a minute and call service if it persists.
• F03 F03, F0E4, F13 and F22 all mean an internal communication error on the touch control module; reset power for a minute and call service if the code remains.
• F12 F12 has two published meanings: a possible problem with a hotplate (element) or its wiring, or — on radiant-element models — an internal communication error on the touch control module.
• F21 F21 means either a problem with the power supply frequency or, on radiant models, the cooktop overheating — let it cool for about 5 minutes and check the installation and airflow.
• F25 F25 means there is a problem with the power supply to the cooktop — reset the breaker, and contact a qualified electrician if it happens again.
• F2 F2 means the surface cooking area is too hot — remove the pans and let it cool, and F2 disappears by itself.
• F4 F4 means a pot or pan is too close to the control panel — move it off, keep hot items away from the touch controls, and wait 5 minutes for the panel to clear.
• F8 F8 means a surface cooking area has been on too long and the automatic shutoff activated — turn it off, remove utensils and let it cool.
• F36 F36 and F37 point to a temperature sensor on an induction coil; on radiant-element cooktops, F36 instead indicates a communication problem between the touch control module and the electronic control.
• F40 F40 and F47 indicate a possible problem with the user interface (touchpad), the cooktop power control board, or the wiring; reset power and call service if it repeats.
• F42 F42, F43 and F58 indicate a possible problem with the cooktop power control board or its wiring; reset at the breaker and call service if the code returns.
• F56 F56 and F60 indicate a possible problem with the user interface (touchpad) or its wiring; clean the panel, reset power, and call service if it repeats.
• F61 F61, F63 and F64 indicate a possible problem with the touch control, the power control module, the wiring, or the electrical supply; reset power and have the supply checked if it repeats.
• FC E0 FC E0 indicates a possible problem with the electrical supply, the wiring, or the induction module; reset the breaker, then call an electrician or service if it repeats.
• FC E1 FC E1 on a cooktop indicates a possible problem with the cooktop user interface (touchpad) or its wiring; reset power and call service if it repeats.
• FC E4 FC E4 indicates a possible problem with the wire harness connecting the cooktop touchpad to the induction module; reset power and call service.
• FC LF FC LF, FC LR, FC RF and FC RR each point to one hotplate (element) or its wiring — the two letters name the position, such as LF for left front; reset power and call service.
• C81 C81 or C83 means the cooktop has overheated and shut off automatically — turn all controls off, clear anything blocking airflow underneath, and wait 5 minutes.
• C82 C82 is an overheat shutoff tied to cookware: the pan is the wrong size or is empty or dry — use a flat-bottomed pan that matches the element and wait 5 minutes.
• U U means no pan is detected — or on induction, that the pot is unsuitable, off-centre or the wrong size; on some models U also shows when Keep Warm is on.
• H H or HOT means a cooking zone is still too hot to touch, even after it has been switched off — it disappears once the zone has cooled.
• Lock Lock means Control Lock is active and the surface cooking areas cannot be turned on — touch and hold LOCK for 3 seconds to unlock.
• d E d E means demo mode is on, so the cooktop will not heat — reconnect power and, within the first minute, press the bottom-left Booster button for 5 seconds.
• E_03 E_03 means an object, liquid or soil is putting pressure on the control panel — clear the control area and wipe it clean.
• E_3 E_3, E_A, E_H, E_21 and F0EA mean the cooktop is too hot — the control panel switches off because the electronics' internal temperature is too high — so let it cool before using it again.
• F0E1 F0E1 is a cookware code on induction cooktops — use ferromagnetic pans of the right size, centred on the zone, and press On/Off twice to clear the code.

Whirlpool Oven Codes

• F0 E0 F0 E0 on a Whirlpool wall oven appears when the electronic oven control cannot recognise what type of problem has occurred; reset the breaker for one minute and call service if it returns.
• F1 E0 F1 E0 on a wall oven indicates a possible problem with the user interface (touchpad), the control, or the wiring — clean the panel, reset the breaker, and call service if it persists.
• F1 E1 F1 E1 points to the oven appliance manager control — one of the oven's control boards — or its wiring; reset power and call service if it returns.
• F1 E2 F1 E2 points to the microwave user interface on a combination wall oven, or its wiring; reset power and call service if it repeats.
• F1 E3 F1 E3 points to the microwave appliance manager and F1 E4 to the microwave appliance manager or power relay; reset power and call service for either.
• F1 E5 F1 E5 points to the microwave inverter or magnetron tube — the parts that generate microwave energy — or their wiring; reset power, and leave repair strictly to a technician.
• F1 E6 F1 E6 points to the microwave thermistor or sensor, or its wiring; reset power for a minute and call service if it returns.
• F1 E7 F1 E7 and F1 E9 point to the appliance control board or its wiring; reset at the breaker and call service if the code returns.
• F2 E0 F2 E0 to F2 E6 on a wall oven all point to the user interface or keypad, the control, or their wiring; clean the keypad, reset power, and call service if the code stays.
• F3 E0 F3 E0 on a wall oven points to the upper oven temperature sensor, the control, or the wiring; reset power and call service if it returns.
• F3 E1 F3 E1 and F3 E5 through F3 E9 point to the lower oven temperature sensor, the control, or the wiring; reset power and call service if the code repeats.
• F3 E2 F3 E2 and F3 E3 on a wall oven point to the oven temperature sensor, the control, or the wiring; reset the breaker and call service on a repeat.
• F3 E4 F3 E4 on a wall oven is caused by a dislodged meat probe or, on some models, a powered rack attachment that has come unplugged — reseat whichever you were using.
• F4 A plain F4 on a wall oven points to the oven cavity control or its wiring; reset the breaker and call service if it returns.
• F4 E0 F4 E0, F4 E8 and F4 E9 point to the microwave inverter or its wiring on a combination wall oven; reset power and leave the repair to a technician.
• F4 E1 F4 E1 and F4 E2 point to a thermistor or microwave sensor, the (microwave) appliance manager, or the wiring; reset power and call service.
• F4 E3 F4 E3 points to the microwave exhaust air temperature sensor or its wiring; reset power and call service if it returns.
• F4 E4 F4 E4 points to the microwave humidity sensor, the microwave appliance manager, or the wiring; reset power and call service.
• F4 E5 F4 E5 points to the microwave weight sensor or its wiring; make sure the turntable is seated, reset power, and call service if it repeats.
• F4 E6 F4 E6 points to the microwave wave guide temperature sensor or its wiring; reset power and call service.
• F4 E7 F4 E7 concerns the microwave meat probe — make sure it is securely in the microwave probe receptacle, and never use the oven's meat probe in the microwave.
• F5 E0 F5 E0, F5 E1, F5 E2, F5 E5 and F5 E7 on a wall oven point to the door latch assembly, the door switch, or the wiring; reset power and do not force a locked door.
• F5 E3 F5 E3 and F5 E4 point to the lower oven door latch assembly, the door switch, or the wiring on a double wall oven; reset power and call service.
• F6 E1 F6 E1, F6 E2 and F6 E3 on a wall oven point to the appliance manager control, the converter control, or the wiring; reset power and call service.
• F6 E4 F6 E4 on a wall oven points to the appliance manager control or its wiring; reset the breaker and call service.
• F6 E5 F6 E5 on a wall oven points to the control panel assembly or its wiring; reset power and call service if it returns.
• F6 E6 F6 E6 points to the upper oven appliance manager control or its wiring; reset power and call service.
• F6 E7 F6 E7 and F6 E8 point to the microwave appliance manager control or its wiring on a combination wall oven; reset power and call service.
• F6 E9 F6 E9 points to the lower oven appliance manager or its wiring; reset power and call service.
• F6 EA F6 EA on a wall oven means the user interface control is sensing an over-temperature condition, or there is a wiring fault — let the oven cool, check ventilation, and reset.
• F7 E0 F7 E0 on a steam-capable wall oven points to the water level, the water level sensor, or the wiring; check the water supply or reservoir, reset power, and call service.
• F7 E1 F7 E1 on a steam wall oven points to the water boiler temperature sensor or its wiring; reset power and call service.
• F7 E3 F7 E3 on a steam wall oven means there may be a problem with the water filter — check or replace it as your manual describes, then reset power.
• F7 E4 F7 E4 on a steam wall oven points to the water conductivity sensor or its wiring; reset power and call service.
• F8 E0 F8 E0 on a wall oven points to an airflow restriction, the upper oven cooling fan, or its wiring; clear the vents, reset power, and call service on a repeat.
• F8 E1 F8 E1 points to an airflow restriction, the lower oven cooling fan, or its wiring; clear the vents, reset, and call service.
• F8 E2 F8 E2 and F8 E3 on a wall oven point to the oven cooling fan or its wiring; reset and call service.
• F8 E4 F8 E4 and F8 E5 on a wall oven point to the exhaust fan air temperature sensor or its wiring; reset power and call service.
• F9 F9 or F9 E0 most often means the wall oven is wired incorrectly at the home supply or hard-wire connection — have a qualified electrician verify it; after an outage, a power reset may clear it.
• Door Door in the microwave display of a combination wall oven means the control is looking for input from the door switches — open and close the microwave door.

Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo Codes

• F0E1 F0E1 means you started a Clean Washer cycle and the machine detects items still inside — remove the load and restart the cycle.
• F0E2 F0E2 means excessive suds were detected and the machine is running a suds reduction routine — let it finish, then switch to measured HE detergent and run a Clean Washer cycle.
• F0E3 F0E3 means temperatures inside the machine got too hot during the dry cycle — check you are using the right cycle for the fabric, then unplug for 5 minutes to reset.
• F0E4 F0E4 means the wash water is too hot, usually because the machine is connected to the hot supply — it must be connected to cold water only.
• F0E5 F0E5 means an off-balance load was detected — the load is too large or uneven, so reduce or rearrange it and avoid washing single items.
• F1E4 F1E4 indicates a possible problem with the main relay; unplug the machine for at least 5 minutes, and call for service if that does not clear it.
• F3E1 F3E1 indicates a possible problem with the water pressure sensor — check the water supply pressure, unplug for 5 minutes, and run a drain-only cycle if water remains.
• F3E2 F3E2 indicates a possible issue with the temperature control sensor; unplug for 5 minutes and call service if it persists.
• F3E3 F3E3 indicates an issue with the air inlet function — the wash function still operates but the dry function will not; unplug for 5 minutes and call service if it stays.
• F3E4 F3E4 indicates an issue with the sensor that reads the detergent level in the Load & Go dispenser, often caused by a clog — clean the dispenser, or dose manually until you do.
• F4E2 F4E2 indicates an issue with the dryer heater circuit — washing still works but drying will not; unplug for 5 minutes and call service if it returns.
• F4E3 F4E3 indicates an issue with the dryer blower motor; washing works but drying will not — unplug for 5 minutes and call service.
• F5E1 F5E1 indicates a door switch or door lock issue: the door is reading unlocked during a cycle when it should be locked; unplug for 5 minutes and call service if it repeats.
• F5E2 F5E2 means the door lock will not lock; clear the door opening, close it firmly, unplug for 5 minutes, and call service if it persists.
• F5E3 F5E3 means the door lock will not unlock; unplug for 5 minutes, do not force the door, and call service if it stays locked.
• F5E4 F5E4 means three consecutive cycles were run without the door being opened — open and close the door and start again.
• F6E1 F6E1 and F6E2 indicate a possible communication failure between the machine's electronics; unplug for 5 minutes and call service if it returns.
• F8E1 F8E1 means no water flow is detected — check the machine is connected to the cold supply, the valve is fully open and the inlet hose is not kinked.
• F8E3 F8E3 indicates a possible internal overflow from the water inlet valve; check the drain hose and drain pump filter are not plugged, and call service if that does not fix it.
• F9E1 F9E1 means the machine is not draining in a timely manner, or at all — clean the drain pump filter and the bellows drain holes, and check the drain hose.

Whirlpool Laundry Tower Codes

• F0E2 F0E2 on a Whirlpool Laundry Tower is over-suds detection — use only HE detergent, measure the dose, and clean the washer regularly.
• F0E3 F0E3 on a Laundry Tower is overload detection — take some items out, reset power, and schedule service if it comes back.
• F0E4 F0E4 on a Laundry Tower means the water temperature is too hot — check the hot and cold hoses are not switched, then reset power.
• F0E5 F0E5 on a Laundry Tower is an off-balance load — if the clothes are dripping, reduce or rebalance the load and run a spin; if not, the cycle just took longer to balance.
• F0E6 F0E6 on a Laundry Tower points to the measurement sensor; reset power and schedule service if it returns.
• F0E7 F0E7 on a Laundry Tower means clothes were detected during the Clean Washer cycle — empty the washer and restart it.
• F1E1 F1E1 and F1E2 on a Laundry Tower are control faults — Whirlpool labels them ACU and MCU — so reset power and schedule service if either returns.
• F1E6 F1E6 on a Laundry Tower points to a power surge — reset power and restart, and schedule service if the code returns.
• F1E7 F1E7 on a Laundry Tower points to the speed sensor; reset power and schedule service if it returns.
• F2E1 F2E1 on a Laundry Tower means a stuck key — clean and dry the control panel, reset power, and schedule service if it returns.
• F2E2 F2E2 and F2E3 on a Laundry Tower are communication errors; reset power and schedule service if either returns.
• F3E1 F3E1 on a Laundry Tower points to the steam temperature sensor; reset power and schedule service if it returns.
• F3E2 F3E2 on a Laundry Tower points to the pressure sensor switch; reset power and schedule service if it returns.
• F3E3 F3E3 points to the water inlet temperature sensor and F3E7 to the wash temperature sensor — for both, check the hot and cold hoses are not reversed, then reset power.
• F3E4 F3E4, F3E6, F7E1 and F7E7 through F7EA on a Laundry Tower all point to the motor or rotor sensor; reset power and schedule service if the code returns.
• F3E8 F3E8 on a Laundry Tower points to a temperature sensor; reset power and schedule service if it returns.
• F4E1 F4E1 on a Laundry Tower points to the steam heater; reset power and schedule service if it returns.
• F4E2 F4E2, F4E3 and F4E4 on a Laundry Tower point to the main heater; reset power and schedule service if the code returns.
• F4E5 F4E5 on a Laundry Tower points to the drying fan; reset power and schedule service if it returns.
• F4E6 F4E6 on a Laundry Tower points to the drying heater; reset power and schedule service if it returns.
• F5E1 F5E1, F5E2 and F5E3 on a Laundry Tower point to the door switch — open the door and close it firmly, making sure no laundry sticks out of the opening.
• F6E1 F6E1 through F6E5, and F1E3, on a Laundry Tower are control communication faults; reset power and schedule service if the code returns.
• F7E2 F7E2 on a Laundry Tower is an MCU failure, a fault in one of the control units; reset power and schedule service if it returns.
• F7E3 F7E3 and F7E4 on a Laundry Tower point to the wash basket; check nothing is jamming the drum, reset power, and schedule service if the code returns.
• F7E6 F7E6 on a Laundry Tower points to the motor circuit; reset power and schedule service if it returns.
• F8E1 F8E1 on a Laundry Tower means long fill or no fill — the washer is not detecting the correct amount of incoming water — so open both faucets and check the hoses and inlet screens.
• F8E2 F8E2 on a Laundry Tower means the dispenser system is clogged — remove the dispenser, clean it thoroughly, and reset power.
• F8E3 F8E3 on a Laundry Tower is an overflow condition or suds detection — use only HE detergent and avoid "no splash" or "easy pour" bleach.
• F8E4 F8E4 on a Laundry Tower points to the flow meter; check the water supply, reset power, and schedule service if it returns.
• F8E5 F8E5 on a Laundry Tower means the water supply is reversed — attach the hot line to the hot inlet and the cold to the cold, then reset power.
• F8E6 F8E6 on a Laundry Tower means water was detected — look for a leak, close the faucets if you find water, and schedule service if the code returns.
• F8E7 F8E7 on a Laundry Tower points to the steam valve; avoid steam cycles and schedule service if it returns.
• F9E1 F9E1 and F9E2 on a Laundry Tower mean the drain pump is blocked — clean the drain pump as your owner's manual describes, then reset power.
• FAE1 FAE1 on a Laundry Tower means the shipping bolts are still installed — remove them as the installation instructions describe, then reset power.

Whirlpool Range Hood Codes

• C C on a Whirlpool range hood means the charcoal filter is due for washing after 120 hours of fan operation — clean and reactivate it, then press and hold FAN for 3 seconds to reset.
• F F on a Whirlpool range hood means the grease filter is due for washing after 30 hours of fan operation — wash and dry the metal filter, then press and hold FAN for 3 seconds to reset.