Maytag Dishwasher F1 E1 — What It Means & How to Fix It
Also shown as F1E1, 1-1 on some models.
Your Maytag's control board has flagged one of its own relays as stuck on — an output that should have switched off still reads live — and a full power-down often clears a false alarm, while a genuinely welded relay means board-level service.
What this code means
F1 E1 (1-1 flashed on light-only panels) reports a stuck relay on the electronic control: the board commanded an output off but still senses it energised. Maytag's guidance is deliberately cautious here, because moisture, a power surge, or a wiring fault can all throw the same signature — so a power reset and a look for damp come before condemning the board.
Because a one-off power event can set this off, always try the long power-down first; if F1 E1 never comes back, it was a transient rather than a failed board.
Most likely causes
| Cause | How likely | DIY-fixable? |
|---|---|---|
| Transient glitch from a power surge or brownout | Common | Yes — power reset |
| Moisture or condensation reaching the control board | Occasional | Partly — dry out |
| Wiring fault feeding the board | Occasional | No — technician job |
| Genuinely welded relay on the board | Occasional | No — technician job |
What you can try yourself
- Switch the dishwasher off at the breaker — not just the front panel — for at least five minutes, then restore power; this clears the majority of false F1 E1 alarms.
- If your area has had a storm or a flickering supply lately, that is very likely the cause and the reset alone should hold.
- Check the console and door front aren't damp from steam or a spill, and let any moisture dry fully before trying again.
- If F1 E1 returns straight after a proper power-down, the relay or the board wiring needs a technician — the control sits on mains voltage and isn't an owner repair.
When to call a technician
- F1 E1 reappears immediately after a five-minute power-down.
- The dishwasher behaves erratically, with lights or functions acting on their own.
- Any smell of burning or visible scorching around the control.
Typical professional repair cost: Control board replacement typically runs $200–$400 with labour.
Frequently asked questions
Will unplugging my Maytag dishwasher fix F1 E1?
Often, yes. A surge or brief outage can make the board misread a relay as stuck, and cutting power at the breaker for five minutes clears that false alarm. If the code returns right away, the board itself likely needs service.
Is it safe to keep using the dishwasher with F1 E1?
Better not to until it clears. A stuck relay is an output the control can't switch off as intended, and you don't want a heating or pump circuit stuck on. Reset it, and if it persists, leave it for a technician.
What usually causes a stuck-relay code?
Most are transient — surges, brownouts, or moisture — and clear with a reset. A truly welded relay, where the contacts have fused, is less common but happens with age and means a new control board.
Sources checked
Error meanings can vary by model. This guide was checked against the documentation above; use the manual for the model number on your own appliance when it differs.
Related Maytag codes
- Maytag Dishwasher F6 E4 The anti-flood float in the bottom of your Maytag — the mechanical backstop that halts filling if water climbs too high — is sending an open signal, most often because it's physically stuck rather than because the tub is actually flooding.
- Maytag Dryer PF PF on a Maytag dryer is the power-failure notice: the dryer lost power mid-cycle and stopped. Nothing is broken — clear the code and resume the load.
- Maytag Washer F8 E1 Your Maytag washer started filling but isn't sensing enough water arriving — nearly always a supply-side issue with the taps, hoses, or inlet screens rather than a fault inside the machine.
- Maytag Washer F9 E1 Your Maytag washer is taking too long to pump out — the machine flags F9 E1 when the water hasn't cleared within about eight minutes, usually because something is blocking the drain path.
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