Maytag Dishwasher Error Codes — Complete List

Maytag dishwashers report faults as paired function-and-problem codes — F6 E1, F7 E1, F8 E1 — printed that way on models with a digital display and flashed on the rest as a blink pattern: the Clean light pulses the function number, pauses about two seconds, then pulses the problem number, so six-pause-one reads as 6-1. Every code below is verified against Maytag's product-help documentation and the shared Whirlpool-platform service data, each with ranked causes and the steps that are safe to try yourself.

• F1 E1 (F1E1, 1-1) Your Maytag's control board has flagged one of its own relays as stuck on — an output that should have switched off still reads live — and a full power-down often clears a false alarm, while a genuinely welded relay means board-level service.
• F2 E1 (F2E1, 2-1) Your Maytag's control thinks one of the touchpad buttons is being held down — a stuck-button reading that's far more often caused by moisture or a sticky film on the panel than by a dead control.
• F3 E1 (F3E1, 3-1) The combined temperature-and-soil sensor in your Maytag's sump has stopped giving the control a usable reading, so the machine can no longer tell how hot or how dirty the water is — sometimes just a fouled sensor face, sometimes a true sensor or wiring fault.
• F5 E1 (F5E1, 5-1) Your Maytag tried to begin a cycle and didn't sense the door securely latched — most often because the door wasn't pushed shut quickly enough after pressing Start, and less often because the latch or its switches are wearing out.
• F5 E2 (F5E2, 5-2) Your Maytag is refusing to start a fresh cycle because it never saw the door opened and closed since the last one — a deliberate check you usually satisfy just by opening the door and shutting it again.
• F6 E1 (F6E1, 6-1) Your Maytag started a cycle, opened its fill valve, and never sensed water arriving — and nine times out of ten the holdup is in the household supply feeding the machine rather than the dishwasher itself.
• F6 E2 (F6E2, 6-2) Where F6 E1 just says water never arrived, F6 E2 names the culprit: the inlet valve's own electrical coil is reading open, so the control can't drive it and no water gets through even with a perfect supply.
• F6 E4 (F6E4, 6-4) The anti-flood float in the bottom of your Maytag — the mechanical backstop that halts filling if water climbs too high — is sending an open signal, most often because it's physically stuck rather than because the tub is actually flooding.
• F7 E1 (F7E1, 7-1) The heating circuit in your Maytag isn't raising the water temperature the way the control expects, so washes stay cool and dishes come out wet — and because every part involved runs on mains power, this one belongs to a technician.
• F8 E1 (F8E1, 8-1) Your Maytag ran its drain pump but the water didn't clear fast enough, so it flagged a slow drain — almost always a blockage you can reach yourself: the filter, the drain hose, or a garbage-disposal plug that was never knocked out.
• F8 E2 (F8E2, 8-2) Unlike the slow-drain code, F8 E2 means the control sees something electrically wrong with the drain pump itself — an open motor winding or broken wiring — so once the easy blockage checks are done, this usually points to a new pump.
• F9 E1 (F9E1, 9-1) Your Maytag has lost track of its diverter — the motor-driven disc that switches water between the upper and lower spray arms — which is why one rack may clean poorly and the control flags F9 E1.
• FA E1 (FAE1, 10-1) Your Maytag couldn't operate the detergent dispenser as expected, so the soap may never release and dishes finish poorly cleaned — usually caked detergent or a jammed dispenser door, sometimes a failed dispenser.

Don't see your code?

Maytag builds these dishwashers on the same platform as Whirlpool, KitchenAid, and Amana, so the codes map closely across those brands — but the exact list shifts by model and generation, and a few functions, including the heater, the inlet valve, and the drain pump, are mains-voltage repairs we send straight to a technician. If your display shows a code that isn't listed here, the tech sheet tucked behind the lower toe panel, or the manual for your model number, is the authority.

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