Maytag Error Codes
Pick the code your Maytag appliance is showing. Each page explains what the code means, the most likely causes ranked by probability, and which fixes are safe to try before calling a technician.
Maytag Washer Codes
- F8 E1 Your Maytag washer started filling but isn't sensing enough water arriving — nearly always a supply-side issue with the taps, hoses, or inlet screens rather than a fault inside the machine.
- F9 E1 Your Maytag washer is taking too long to pump out — the machine flags F9 E1 when the water hasn't cleared within about eight minutes, usually because something is blocking the drain path.
- F5 E2 Your Maytag washer tried to lock the door or lid and couldn't — most often something is physically blocking the latch, or the lock assembly itself has worn out.
- F5 E3 Your Maytag washer finished but the door or lid won't release — usually because water is still in the tub holding the lock, with a worn lock assembly behind the stubborn cases.
- F7 E1 Your Maytag washer's control isn't getting the motor speed it expects — F7 E1 is a basket/motor speed-sensing fault, often traced to drum drag, the shifter actuator, or the motor's speed sensor.
- F0 E2 Your Maytag washer has detected too many suds and is running an automatic suds-reduction routine — almost always caused by too much detergent or a non-HE detergent rather than a hardware fault.
- F8 E2 Your Maytag washer can't move its detergent dispenser into position — F8 E2 flags a dispenser-system fault, usually a clogged drawer or a stuck dispenser actuator.
- F3 E1 Your Maytag washer can't read its water level — F3 E1 indicates a pressure-sensor or water-level system fault, often a blocked pressure hose rather than the sensor itself.
- oL Your Maytag washer is telling you the load is too big — the oL code means the basket is overloaded, and the fix is simply to take some laundry out and redistribute the rest.
Maytag Dishwasher Codes
- F1 E1 Your Maytag's control board has flagged one of its own relays as stuck on — an output that should have switched off still reads live — and a full power-down often clears a false alarm, while a genuinely welded relay means board-level service.
- F6 E4 The anti-flood float in the bottom of your Maytag — the mechanical backstop that halts filling if water climbs too high — is sending an open signal, most often because it's physically stuck rather than because the tub is actually flooding.
Maytag Dryer Codes
- PF PF on a Maytag dryer is the power-failure notice: the dryer lost power mid-cycle and stopped. Nothing is broken — clear the code and resume the load.
- AF AF on a Maytag dryer is the airflow warning: the exhaust is restricted, so the dryer runs hot and slow. Cleaning the lint screen and vent run fixes most cases without parts.
- L2 L2 on a Maytag dryer means the 240-volt supply is weak or one leg is missing — the dryer tumbles but never heats. Check the breaker handles, then call an electrician.
Maytag Range Codes
- F3 E0 F3 E0 on a Maytag range flags the oven temperature sensing circuit — the shared-platform documentation names the temperature sensor, the control, or the associated wiring. One-minute breaker reset first.
- F3 E1 F3 E1 is the paired partner of F3 E0 on Maytag's shared platform: the same oven temperature sensing circuit, control, or wiring suspects. A one-minute breaker reset is the official first step.
- F1 E0 F1 E0 on a Maytag range points at the oven control — the shared platform's name for it is the oven control or the associated wiring. One-minute breaker reset first.
- F2 E0 F2 E0 on a Maytag range points at the user interface, the keypad, the control, or the wiring — the input side of the oven. Clean keys and a one-minute breaker reset first.