Maytag Error Codes

Pick the code your Maytag appliance is showing. Each page explains what the code means, the most likely causes ranked by probability, and which fixes are safe to try before calling a technician.

Maytag Washer Codes

• F8 E1 Your Maytag washer started filling but isn't sensing enough water arriving — nearly always a supply-side issue with the taps, hoses, or inlet screens rather than a fault inside the machine.
• F9 E1 Your Maytag washer is taking too long to pump out — the machine flags F9 E1 when the water hasn't cleared within about eight minutes, usually because something is blocking the drain path.
• F5 E2 Your Maytag washer tried to lock the door or lid and couldn't — most often something is physically blocking the latch, or the lock assembly itself has worn out.
• F5 E3 Your Maytag washer finished but the door or lid won't release — usually because water is still in the tub holding the lock, with a worn lock assembly behind the stubborn cases.
• F7 E1 Your Maytag washer's control isn't getting the motor speed it expects — F7 E1 is a basket/motor speed-sensing fault, often traced to drum drag, the shifter actuator, or the motor's speed sensor.
• F0 E2 Your Maytag washer has detected too many suds and is running an automatic suds-reduction routine — almost always caused by too much detergent or a non-HE detergent rather than a hardware fault.
• F8 E2 Your Maytag washer can't move its detergent dispenser into position — F8 E2 flags a dispenser-system fault, usually a clogged drawer or a stuck dispenser actuator.
• F2 E1 Your Maytag washer's control thinks a button is stuck down — F2 E1 is a stuck-key fault, often from a held or sticky button, moisture on the panel, or a failing touch interface.
• F1 E1 Your Maytag washer has logged a main control board fault — F1 E1 points to an internal error in the central control unit (ACU), and the only safe owner step is a power reset before calling a technician.
• F3 E1 Your Maytag washer can't read its water level — F3 E1 indicates a pressure-sensor or water-level system fault, often a blocked pressure hose rather than the sensor itself.
• oL Your Maytag washer is telling you the load is too big — the oL code means the basket is overloaded, and the fix is simply to take some laundry out and redistribute the rest.
• uL Your Maytag washer has found an uneven load during spin — the uL code means the laundry is bunched to one side, and redistributing it lets the machine balance and spin up safely.

Maytag Dishwasher Codes

• F1 E1 Your Maytag's control board has flagged one of its own relays as stuck on — an output that should have switched off still reads live — and a full power-down often clears a false alarm, while a genuinely welded relay means board-level service.
• F2 E1 Your Maytag's control thinks one of the touchpad buttons is being held down — a stuck-button reading that's far more often caused by moisture or a sticky film on the panel than by a dead control.
• F3 E1 The combined temperature-and-soil sensor in your Maytag's sump has stopped giving the control a usable reading, so the machine can no longer tell how hot or how dirty the water is — sometimes just a fouled sensor face, sometimes a true sensor or wiring fault.
• F5 E1 Your Maytag tried to begin a cycle and didn't sense the door securely latched — most often because the door wasn't pushed shut quickly enough after pressing Start, and less often because the latch or its switches are wearing out.
• F5 E2 Your Maytag is refusing to start a fresh cycle because it never saw the door opened and closed since the last one — a deliberate check you usually satisfy just by opening the door and shutting it again.
• F6 E1 Your Maytag started a cycle, opened its fill valve, and never sensed water arriving — and nine times out of ten the holdup is in the household supply feeding the machine rather than the dishwasher itself.
• F6 E2 Where F6 E1 just says water never arrived, F6 E2 names the culprit: the inlet valve's own electrical coil is reading open, so the control can't drive it and no water gets through even with a perfect supply.
• F6 E4 The anti-flood float in the bottom of your Maytag — the mechanical backstop that halts filling if water climbs too high — is sending an open signal, most often because it's physically stuck rather than because the tub is actually flooding.
• F7 E1 The heating circuit in your Maytag isn't raising the water temperature the way the control expects, so washes stay cool and dishes come out wet — and because every part involved runs on mains power, this one belongs to a technician.
• F8 E1 Your Maytag ran its drain pump but the water didn't clear fast enough, so it flagged a slow drain — almost always a blockage you can reach yourself: the filter, the drain hose, or a garbage-disposal plug that was never knocked out.
• F8 E2 Unlike the slow-drain code, F8 E2 means the control sees something electrically wrong with the drain pump itself — an open motor winding or broken wiring — so once the easy blockage checks are done, this usually points to a new pump.
• F9 E1 Your Maytag has lost track of its diverter — the motor-driven disc that switches water between the upper and lower spray arms — which is why one rack may clean poorly and the control flags F9 E1.
• FA E1 Your Maytag couldn't operate the detergent dispenser as expected, so the soap may never release and dishes finish poorly cleaned — usually caked detergent or a jammed dispenser door, sometimes a failed dispenser.