Dishwasher Leak Alarm — What It Means & What to Check
A leak alarm means moisture reached the sensor in the base pan under the tub — sometimes a real leak, but oversudsing and water sloshed during a move are famous false triggers.
Dishwashers keep a moisture sensor in the drip pan beneath the tub, and when it gets wet the machine assumes the worst: many models lock into a protective mode and run the drain pump continuously to keep water off your floor. That pump-that-won't-stop behaviour is itself the tell-tale sign of a leak alarm.
The sensor can't tell leak water from foam water or from water tipped into the pan when the unit was moved — which is why the first question is always whether anything actually dripped on your floor.
Error codes that match this symptom
- Samsung Dishwasher LC Moisture reached the leak sensor in the dishwasher's drip pan — sometimes a real leak, but false alarms from a recent move, a spill, or even high humidity are well known.
- LG Dishwasher AE The leak sensor in the base of the dishwasher detected water — the unit goes into a protective drain mode, and the cause ranges from oversudsing to a genuine seal failure.
- Bosch Dishwasher E15 Water reached the base pan under the tub and Bosch's leak protection locked the machine — sometimes a genuine leak, often a one-off spill or condensation that clears once the base dries.
- Frigidaire Dishwasher i30 Water collected in the pan beneath the tub and the anti-leak response took over — the cause ranges from a one-off overflow or suds episode to a genuine seal failure.
Different brand? The checks below apply broadly — but confirm any code against your model's manual before acting on it.
What to check first
- Cut power at the breaker (this stops a nonstop pump) and close the supply valve under the sink.
- Check the floor and cabinet base: dry means a likely false trigger; wet means a real leak — keep the valve closed.
- Think back: was the unit recently moved or tilted, or did someone use hand dish soap? Both are classic false-alarm stories.
- Hand-tighten the visible connections — the supply fitting under the sink and the drain hose clamp.
- Leave power off overnight so the base pan dries, then run a short test cycle while watching underneath.
When to call a technician
- Fresh water appears under the unit during the test cycle — an internal hose, sump gasket, or pump seal has failed.
- The alarm returns after every complete dry-out with no suds or move involved.
- The drain pump keeps self-activating over several days, meaning the sensor keeps finding new water.
Typical professional repair cost: Diagnosis runs $75–$150; internal seal or hose repairs commonly land between $150 and $350.