Samsung Dishwasher LC — What It Means & How to Fix It
Also shown as LE on some models.
Moisture reached the leak sensor in the dishwasher's drip pan — sometimes a real leak, but false alarms from a recent move, a spill, or even high humidity are well known.
What this code means
LC (or LE on some models) is Samsung's dishwasher leak code: the sensor in the base pan detected water or sufficient moisture. Genuine causes include a leaking hose connection or a failing pump seal, but this code is also famous for tripping after the unit is moved, after an overfilled detergent dispenser, or when the wrong rinse aid setting causes oversudsing.
LC behavior is consistent on Samsung dishwashers from roughly 2015 onward. Your model number is on the label inside the door edge — Samsung's site has the matching manual if your display differs.
Most likely causes
| Cause | How likely | DIY-fixable? |
|---|---|---|
| Moisture in the base pan without an active leak (spill, recent move, condensation) | Very common | Yes — dry out |
| Oversudsing from too much detergent or wrong rinse-aid dose | Common | Yes — adjust dosing |
| Loose water-supply or drain-hose connection under the unit | Common | Partly — visible fittings only |
| Failed pump seal, sump gasket, or cracked hose inside the base | Less common | No — technician job |
What you can try yourself
- Turn off the dishwasher at the wall or breaker, and close the water supply valve under the sink.
- Check the floor and cabinet base around the unit. If everything is dry, the sensor may be reacting to old moisture in the drip pan rather than an active leak.
- Inspect what you can see without moving the unit: the supply line connection under the sink and the drain hose to the disposal or standpipe. Hand-tighten anything loose.
- Cut power for several hours (or overnight) so the base pan can dry, then restore power and run a short cycle while watching underneath for fresh water.
- Review your detergent: use dishwasher-specific detergent only, skip 'extra' doses, and never add dish soap — foam reaching the base pan is a classic LC trigger.
When to call a technician
- Water visibly seeps from under the unit during a cycle — stop and keep the supply valve closed.
- The code returns after every full dry-out, which points to an internal seal or hose failing intermittently.
- The dishwasher repeatedly runs its drain pump on its own (anti-flood mode) even when off.
Typical professional repair cost: A diagnostic visit runs $75–$150; internal hose or pump-seal repairs typically land between $150 and $350.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my Samsung dishwasher show LC after I moved or installed it?
Tilting the unit during a move can slosh residual water in the base pan onto the leak sensor. Cut power and let the pan dry for several hours — the code usually clears on its own.
How do I reset the LC code?
There's no button-press reset for LC — cut power at the breaker for a few minutes. But the code only stays away if the sensor area is dry, so fix or dry out the moisture source first.
Is it safe to run the dishwasher with the LC code showing?
The machine generally won't let you — it locks into a drain-and-protect mode. Don't try to force cycles; find the moisture source first so you're not pumping water onto your floor.
Can regular dish soap cause the LC error?
Yes. Hand dish soap foams enormously in a dishwasher, and the escaping foam carries water into the base pan. If someone used it by mistake, expect to run several rinse cycles to purge it.
Related Samsung codes
- Samsung Dishwasher 4C The dishwasher isn't receiving enough water — start with the shut-off valve under the sink and the supply line before suspecting any failed part.
- Samsung Washer 4C Your Samsung washer isn't getting water — usually a closed tap, kinked fill hose, or clogged inlet screen rather than a broken machine.
- Samsung Washer 5C The washer can't drain — nine times out of ten the culprit is a clogged debris filter or a blocked drain hose, both of which you can clear yourself.
- Samsung Washer UE The load inside the drum is unbalanced, so the washer stopped before spinning at full speed — usually fixed by rearranging the laundry, not by repairs.
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