Samsung Error Codes

Pick the code your Samsung appliance is showing. Each page explains what the code means, the most likely causes ranked by probability, and which fixes are safe to try before calling a technician.

Samsung Washer Codes

• 4C Your Samsung washer isn't getting water — usually a closed tap, kinked fill hose, or clogged inlet screen rather than a broken machine.
• 5C The washer can't drain — nine times out of ten the culprit is a clogged debris filter or a blocked drain hose, both of which you can clear yourself.
• UE The load inside the drum is unbalanced, so the washer stopped before spinning at full speed — usually fixed by rearranging the laundry, not by repairs.
• dC The washer thinks its door is open or not locked — most often a bit of laundry trapped in the door seal or debris in the latch, occasionally a failed door lock.
• LC The washer's base-pan sensor detected water where it shouldn't be — sometimes a genuine leak, but quite often just oversudsing or a recently moved drain hose.
• SUD The washer detected too much foam and paused to let the suds break down — almost always caused by too much detergent or the wrong (non-HE) type.
• 1C The water level sensor is sending readings the washer can't trust, so it stops rather than risk overfilling — a reset occasionally clears it, but a failed sensor needs a technician.
• 3C The motor didn't run the way the control board commanded — sometimes a one-off from an overloaded or jammed drum, but a repeating 3C points at the motor or its sensor wiring.
• OC The washer detected more water than the cycle should ever contain — usually an inlet valve that won't fully close or a drain hose installed so it siphons water back in.
• tC The temperature sensor is returning readings outside the range the washer considers possible, so heating control can't be trusted — try one reset, then it's a technician's sensor swap.
• HC The washer's internal water heater ran too hot or its control failed — beyond a single reset, this is a mains-voltage repair that belongs to a technician.
• AC The washer's main board and display board stopped talking to each other — a long unplug fixes the glitch cases, while persistent ones mean a wiring or board fault.
• 8C The vibration (MEMS) sensor that watches drum movement reported a fault — sometimes provoked by an unlevel machine or wild load, otherwise the sensor itself has failed.
• ddC The little AddWash door was opened without pressing Pause first, so the washer stopped to protect itself — close it properly and resume; a recurring ddC means the mini-door latch is faulty.

Samsung Dishwasher Codes

• LC Moisture reached the leak sensor in the dishwasher's drip pan — sometimes a real leak, but false alarms from a recent move, a spill, or even high humidity are well known.
• 4C The dishwasher isn't receiving enough water — start with the shut-off valve under the sink and the supply line before suspecting any failed part.
• 5C The dishwasher couldn't pump its water out — the filter and sump catch most of the blame, with the drain hose and a never-removed disposal knockout plug close behind.
• OC The dishwasher measured more water inside than any cycle should use — oversudsing fakes it, a stuck inlet valve causes it for real, and a sensor fault lies about it.
• HC The water inside exceeded the temperature any cycle should reach, which means the heater or its controls are misbehaving — a mains-voltage problem with no safe DIY path.
• 3C The circulation pump that sprays water around the tub didn't operate as commanded — restart once per Samsung's guidance, and if it returns, the pump needs professional attention.
• 9E The unit detected too little water while washing — sometimes a tall item is literally blocking or displacing the water path, otherwise the supply or level sensing is at fault.
• 7E The WaterWall reflector — the sliding bar that sweeps the spray across the tub — couldn't move, and the cause is usually tape, an obstruction, or the bar sitting off its rail.
• bE2 The control panel thinks a button is being held down continuously — residue and moisture cause most cases, a genuinely failed panel the rest.

Samsung Dryer Codes

• dC Your Samsung dryer shows dC when it can't confirm the door is shut and latched, so the drum won't turn — usually a door caught on laundry, a misaligned strike, or a tired latch switch rather than anything deep inside the machine.
• HC HC is Samsung's overheating warning: the dryer sensed the drum getting hotter than it should and cut the heat to stay safe — nine times out of ten because a clogged lint filter or blocked exhaust vent is trapping heat inside.
• tS tS on a Samsung dryer flags a problem with the temperature reading itself — the sensor is reporting a value the control doesn't trust — and the most common trigger is a clogged lint filter or vent throwing readings off rather than a dead part.
• 9C1 9C1 tells you the Samsung dryer is seeing abnormal electrical supply — too high, too low, or unstable — most often from an extension cord, a shared or miswired outlet, or a power cord that isn't fully seated.
• bE bE means the Samsung dryer thinks one of its panel buttons is stuck down or being held — often just a sticky or debris-blocked button that frees up once you power off and work each one back and forth.
• AC AC means the Samsung dryer's internal boards have lost reliable communication with each other — frequently a one-off glitch that a full power-down clears, but a persistent AC points to a wiring or control-board fault.
• FC FC on a Samsung dryer signals an invalid power-source frequency — the incoming AC isn't the steady frequency the dryer expects — which usually clears on a restart but can point to a generator, converter, or supply problem if it sticks.
• Cg Cg (and the C80 and C90 variants) is the result of Samsung's Vent Blockage self-test telling you the exhaust duct is clogged — the number roughly indicates how restricted it is — so the fix is to clean the lint filter and the entire vent line.
• 3C 3C is Samsung's motor error: the dryer isn't getting the drum motor to start, run, or report back correctly, so it stops the cycle — worth one power reset, but a repeat almost always means a motor or control fault for a technician.
• HC2 HC2 appears on gas Samsung dryers when the burner fails to ignite, so the drum turns but the clothes stay cold — and because every remaining cause is a gas component, this one goes to a licensed technician after a couple of safe checks.
• CL CL isn't a malfunction — it means Child Lock is switched on, which disables the Samsung dryer's control panel (and on some models locks the door) so buttons don't respond until you turn it back off.

Samsung Refrigerator Codes

• 21E 21E is Samsung's freezer fan fault: the evaporator fan in the freezer section isn't turning, so cold air stops circulating — usually ice bridging over the fan, sometimes a worn fan motor.
• 22E 22E is Samsung's fresh-food (fridge) fan fault, displayed as 22C on some models: the evaporator fan serving the refrigerator section has stopped, so the fresh-food compartment runs too warm.
• 5E 5E is Samsung's fridge defrost sensor error: the defrost sensor in the fresh-food (fridge) section isn't reporting a plausible temperature, so automatic defrost can't run properly and frost builds up over time.
• 84C 84C is Samsung's compressor lock code: the compressor rotor won't turn, so cooling stops. One reset is the only safe DIY step — anything recurring is a compressor, driver, or sealed-system repair.
• 85C 85C on Samsung Family Hub refrigerators is a low input voltage warning: the supply dipped below what the fridge needs. It often flashes and clears in a few seconds — the concern is only when it stays.
• 88 88 88 88 is Samsung's board-to-board communication fault: the main control board lost contact with the display or another module. A proper breaker reset clears most one-off cases.
• OF OF OF OF on a Samsung refrigerator is demo mode (or Cooling Off): the fridge is running as a showroom unit with cooling disabled. It's a setting — not a fault — and it exits with an 8-second button hold.
• PC ER PC ER (shown as PC CH on older Samsungs) means the main control and display can't talk — try a full power reset.
• 83E 83E (83C on older) means Samsung detected an abnormal compressor current — often a start or inverter issue.
• 85E 85E is Samsung's compressor under-voltage error — the supply to the compressor dipped too low, which Samsung says can follow a brown-out.
• 86E 86E is Samsung's compressor over-voltage error — the supply to the compressor went too high, which Samsung says can follow a power surge.
• 39E 39E (39C) flags Samsung's ice-maker-related fault — ice maker, its fan or sensor isn't reporting correctly.
• 33E 33E on Samsung flags the ice-pipe heater or ice-maker heating circuit — often tied to a frozen fill tube.

Samsung Range Codes

• C-20 C-20 is Samsung's oven temperature sensor error: the sensor circuit reads open, shorted, or out of range, so the control board can't trust the cavity temperature.
• C-21 C-21 is Samsung's over-temperature code: the oven sensor detected the cavity hotter than the setpoint and shut heating down to protect the unit.
• C-24 C-24 is Samsung's fast-temperature-rise warning: the cavity heated quicker than expected, most often because the vent on the back of the cooktop is covered.
• C-F0 C-F0 is Samsung's communication error between the main control board and the display: the two stopped talking. A restart clears most cases; induction models have an official software-update fix.
• S-01 S-01 is Samsung's safety shutoff: the oven ran continuously at its set temperature for hours and the board switched it off. It's a protection feature, not a fault — turn it off, remove the food, and use it normally.
• -dE- -dE- on Samsung Flex Duo ranges is a divider error: the Smart Divider partition isn't seated properly, so the oven can't tell its two cavities apart. Reseating it clears the code.
• C-22 C-22 is Samsung's sensor-malfunction code, grouped with C-20 and C-21: the oven temperature sensing circuit is misbehaving. Restart, then a 30-second power off, before a sensor diagnosis.
• C-d0 C-d0 is Samsung's button-problem code: a button was pressed and held for a period of time. Clean the buttons, keep them dry, then turn the oven off and try again.
• C-d1 C-d1 is Samsung's door-lock malfunction code. Samsung's fix is a two-step: turn the oven off and restart it; if it continues, switch power off for 30 seconds or more and reconnect.
• C-F1 C-F1 is the EEPROM read/write fault: it only occurs while the oven is reading or writing its memory settings. Samsung's fix is a restart, then a 30-second power off.
• C-F2 C-F2 is Samsung's touch-to-control communication fault: a communication problem between the touch IC and the main or sub microcontroller. Restart, then a 30-second power off.
• Pr E Pr E on a Samsung oven is the preheat indicator, not an error: the oven is heating toward your set temperature. It disappears on its own — just keep the door closed.