Samsung Washer 1C — What It Means & How to Fix It
Also shown as 1E on some models.
The water level sensor is sending readings the washer can't trust, so it stops rather than risk overfilling — a reset occasionally clears it, but a failed sensor needs a technician.
What this code means
1C (1E on older displays) is a water level sensor error: the pressure sensor that tells the control board how much water is in the tub is returning values outside the believable range. Unlike supply or drain codes, the problem here is internal measurement, not water movement — which is why hose-and-tap checks rarely fix it.
1C is consistent on modern Samsung washers, but it's easy to misread as IC or LC on a segment display. If the machine is also leaking or oversudsing, re-check which code you're actually seeing before troubleshooting.
Most likely causes
| Cause | How likely | DIY-fixable? |
|---|---|---|
| One-off sensor misread after a power blip or interrupted cycle | Common | Yes — power reset |
| Heavy suds confusing the pressure reading | Occasional | Yes — purge suds |
| Failed water level (pressure) sensor or blocked sensor hose | Common | No — technician job |
| Control board fault | Less common | No — technician job |
What you can try yourself
- Unplug the washer for a full five minutes so the control board resets completely, then try a short cycle.
- If you've been heavy-handed with detergent lately, run an empty hot cycle with no detergent — foam pressing on the sensor's air line can fake a bad reading.
- Make sure the machine is level and the load is modest for the test run; sloshing in an overloaded drum makes marginal sensors look worse.
- If 1C returns on a clean, small test load, stop there — the sensor and its hose live inside the cabinet, and diagnosing them means opening the machine.
When to call a technician
- The code returns within a cycle or two of every reset — classic failed sensor.
- The washer overfills or barely fills before stopping, which means the board genuinely can't see the water level.
- 1C alternates with other sensor codes, pointing at wiring or the board rather than one part.
Typical professional repair cost: Water level sensor replacement typically runs $120–$250 including labor; a control board, if it comes to that, $200–$350.
Frequently asked questions
Can I keep washing with a 1C code?
Not safely. The water level sensor is what stops the machine from overfilling onto your floor. If it's lying to the control board, the protective logic is compromised — get it looked at before running full loads.
Why did 1C appear right after a power outage?
An interruption mid-fill can leave the sensor reading and the board's expectations out of sync. That case is exactly what the five-minute unplug fixes — if the code stays gone, you're done.
Is the 1C sensor the same part as the pressure switch on old washers?
Functionally yes — modern Samsungs use an electronic pressure sensor instead of a mechanical switch, but both measure water level via air pressure in a small tube. The electronic version fails more gracefully but still fails.
Related Samsung codes
- Samsung Washer 4C Your Samsung washer isn't getting water — usually a closed tap, kinked fill hose, or clogged inlet screen rather than a broken machine.
- Samsung Washer 5C The washer can't drain — nine times out of ten the culprit is a clogged debris filter or a blocked drain hose, both of which you can clear yourself.
- Samsung Washer UE The load inside the drum is unbalanced, so the washer stopped before spinning at full speed — usually fixed by rearranging the laundry, not by repairs.
- Samsung Washer dC The washer thinks its door is open or not locked — most often a bit of laundry trapped in the door seal or debris in the latch, occasionally a failed door lock.
More: all Samsung washer codes · all Samsung codes · search by symptom