Samsung Washer Error Codes — Complete List

Samsung washers report faults with short letter codes — 4C, 5C, UE — and the same problem keeps its meaning across most models made since about 2015, though older machines often show an E-suffix variant (4E, 5E) instead. The codes below are the ones we've verified; each links to a full diagnosis with ranked causes and the fixes that are safe to try.

• 4C (4E) Your Samsung washer isn't getting water — usually a closed tap, kinked fill hose, or clogged inlet screen rather than a broken machine.
• 5C (5E, SC) The washer can't drain — nine times out of ten the culprit is a clogged debris filter or a blocked drain hose, both of which you can clear yourself.
• UE (Ub, E4) The load inside the drum is unbalanced, so the washer stopped before spinning at full speed — usually fixed by rearranging the laundry, not by repairs.
• dC (dE, dE1, dL) The washer thinks its door is open or not locked — most often a bit of laundry trapped in the door seal or debris in the latch, occasionally a failed door lock.
• LC (LC1, LE, LE1) The washer's base-pan sensor detected water where it shouldn't be — sometimes a genuine leak, but quite often just oversudsing or a recently moved drain hose.
• SUD (5D, Sd) The washer detected too much foam and paused to let the suds break down — almost always caused by too much detergent or the wrong (non-HE) type.
• 1C (1E) The water level sensor is sending readings the washer can't trust, so it stops rather than risk overfilling — a reset occasionally clears it, but a failed sensor needs a technician.
• 3C (3E) The motor didn't run the way the control board commanded — sometimes a one-off from an overloaded or jammed drum, but a repeating 3C points at the motor or its sensor wiring.
• OC (OE) The washer detected more water than the cycle should ever contain — usually an inlet valve that won't fully close or a drain hose installed so it siphons water back in.
• tC (tE, EC) The temperature sensor is returning readings outside the range the washer considers possible, so heating control can't be trusted — try one reset, then it's a technician's sensor swap.
• HC (HE) The washer's internal water heater ran too hot or its control failed — beyond a single reset, this is a mains-voltage repair that belongs to a technician.
• AC (AE, AC6) The washer's main board and display board stopped talking to each other — a long unplug fixes the glitch cases, while persistent ones mean a wiring or board fault.
• 8C (8E, 8C1) The vibration (MEMS) sensor that watches drum movement reported a fault — sometimes provoked by an unlevel machine or wild load, otherwise the sensor itself has failed.
• ddC The little AddWash door was opened without pressing Pause first, so the washer stopped to protect itself — close it properly and resume; a recurring ddC means the mini-door latch is faulty.

Don't see your code?

If your display shows a code that isn't listed here, don't guess: Samsung codes occasionally differ by model year, and the manual for your exact model number (sticker inside the door frame) is the only reliable source.

Also from Samsung: Samsung dishwasher error codes